Is Now the Time for Canned Wine?
by Holly Madrigal
The click-pop-fizz of opening a can is not the sound one would usually associate with fine wine. But rules are meant to be broken, and a whole crop of wineries are throwing caution to the wind and filling cans with their high-quality vintages. Much like the twist-off cap versus cork controversy of the early two thousands, innovation stirs things up, and into this maelstrom steps Allan Green of Anderson Valley. With 45 years in the industry as a winemaker and grape grower at Greenwood Ridge Vineyards, Allan helped to found the Mendocino Wine Competition in 1979. So it was not a huge leap to launch another first—The International Canned Wine Competition, held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds in Boonville.
Since 1980, Allan has curated a personal collection of over 1,400 wine cans. In fact, in 2015, he had the Guiness Book of World Records biggest wine can collection of 450 cans. Says Green, “Originally, I was a beer can collector. The first wine cans I collected were from other beer can collectors who didn’t want them. So, I switched to collecting wine in cans . . . Back in the 1930s, some wineries tried selling in cans, but it never caught on.” According to Allan, in the 1980s every major supermarket chain in England had its own brand of wine in cans. Now many high-quality wineries are giving it a go.
Turns out there are many reasons to consider drinking your favorite wine from a can. Cans of wine can be easily packed for campouts and adventures, and they can be crushed to a smaller size for pack-out. Their smaller size—usually equal to 375 ml—also reduces waste. (You might be surprised to learn this size is equivalent to half of a bottle.) Some wineries prefer the narrower but taller cans which hold 250 ml, roughly a glass and a half of wine and a good option for those who don’t want to quaff an entire half-bottle.
Advancements in canning technology have made the storage method more appealing from the producer perspective. Says Green, “I probably would have tried it at Greenwood Ridge, back when I owned it, but the technology just wasn’t there yet.” But thanks to changes in portable canning machines, wineries can now put relatively small craft batches into cans. In addition, the environmental impact of transportation is lower because cans are easier to package and lighter to ship. All of this innovation has increased the canned vino options, which are now available in well stocked markets, by mail, and in tasting rooms. Mendocino County has a few wineries selling their vintages in cans—including Bonterra Organic Vineyards and Graziano Family of Wines. Green is sure that more will join the fray.
One wine writer provides an insider tip for this new trend: pour the canned wine into a glass. Packaging wine in cans is all well and good, but the drinking experience is heightened when sipped from a glass. This allows the bouquet to develop, and aromatics are a huge part of wine enjoyment.
The first International Canned Wine Competition convened in July 2019 and had more than 200 entries from multiple regions of California, Oregon, Spain, Michigan, Australia, and Argentina, to name a few. Panels of judges, professionals from the wine world, scored and rated in categories of red, white, rosé, sparkling, carbonated, and spritzers. When the dust had settled, two wines from Napa Valley took the best in show—Insomnia Pinot Noir and a 2017 Riesling from Sans Wine Co. Archer Roose Bubbly from Veneto won a gold medal. Benmarl Winery of New York scored a number of Best in Class honors. Local photographer and competition panel moderator Tom Liden says, “The wines were surprisingly good, and I was very impressed with the amount of varietal selection and broad international representation. All the judges seemed to be impressed as well.” Plans are already underway for the 2nd annual competition, which will build on the foundation created in 2019. Mark your calendars for July 22, 2020 at the Boonville Fairgrounds.
Interest in this unorthodox way to package wine has only increased over time. Those wanting to picnic outdoors, take wine on a trip or to a concert now have a delicious, travel-worthy option. And next time you hear that click-pop, think of it as the sound of innovation and get ready to enjoy some stellar Mendocino County wine.
For information on the upcoming 2020 International Canned Wine Competition, or for the full list of winners from 2019, see cannedwinecompetition.com. Check your local store, restaurant (Princess Seafood sells wine only in cans), or tasting room for availability.
Holly Madrigal is a Mendocino County maven who loves to share the delights of our region. She’s the director of Leadership Mendocino and takes great joy in publishing this magazine.
Photo courtesy of Allan Green.
