Taste Buds
Navigating the stop-and-go traffic on State Street in Ukiah, it’s easy to miss the building with bright green walls and red-trimmed windows and doors tucked under an unassuming awning. Upon closer inspection, the awning is a vivid yellow underneath, and it seems to be supported by a beautifully carved sign displaying the restaurant’s name, Taste Buds. Outside is a wooden table and a small palm tree, whose ample leaves appear to spread in greeting.
The lucent atmosphere outside of Taste Buds is mirrored inside the restaurant. A combination of the wonderful smells of the hot bar, the stunning wood counter, and colorful menu creates an inviting Caribbean-esque vibe, fitting for their Jamaican-inspired food options.
Cody Akin has owned Taste Buds since June 1st of 2019. His best friend, Carol Laster, is the manager and cook. They worked closely with the previous owners to have a smooth transition, and they have continued to expand and improve their menu to give their customers more options and expose them to how truly delicious vegan cuisine can be.
Both Cody and Carol grew up in Ukiah and became close friends when they worked at the Ukiah Natural Foods Co-op for four years. Owning and running a restaurant together has been a learning process, but Carol says that the community keeps them going. “We’ve had a lot of positive feedback and a lot of support from the community,” Carol says, “People are definitely grateful and show their love.”
Carol says that if she had to describe what they are working towards at Taste Buds in a few words, the goal of the restaurant is to provide “cruelty-free cuisine.” While Cody and Carol have worked together to make sure that the restaurant is able to achieve that goal, the growing success of the restaurant is also largely due to the support from their family. Cody’s mom and sister, as well as Carol’s partner, have played a big role in the positive experience that they’ve had as they journey in the realm of owning and running a restaurant.
Beyond providing healthy options for the community, they are also interested in creating a space that feels welcoming. This is seen through the work of local artists featured in the wall of their dining area. Today, the soft yellow walls of Taste Buds’ dining room are adorned with the works of artists Rachel Ebel and Jessica Standerfer. Ebel’s photography exhibit is called “Escapes to Seascapes,” and Standerfer has a series of paintings and drawings showcased. The very different styles of art add to the charm of the place and to the owners’ commitment towards the community. Along with the kids’ corner, featuring a small couch and plenty of toys, and the salt lamps on the tables, the art increases the feeling of home that the dining area gives off.
The extensive menu at Taste Buds is impressive. Not only does it have a hot bar with eight delicious options to choose from, but it also offers so many choices that you almost forget you are in a plant-based eatery. Some of the choices on their specials menu are barbecue drumsticks and tempeh BLTs and Reubens. They offer “chicken” nuggets with fries and smaller portions from the hot bar for kids. There are also yummy side dishes, among them fried plantains, sweet potato fries, and vegan cheese fries.
Some of the raw dishes Taste Buds offers include taco salad and nachos. A “raw” dish usually refers to vegan dishes made from uncooked, unprocessed foods not heated above 118 degrees Fahrenheit. Many nutritional benefits can be lost through the process of cooking, and raw food advocates believe that there are health benefits—increased energy, better digestion, and clearer skin—in a diet that consists mostly of raw foods.
The various vegan and gluten-free dessert options at Taste Buds make it possible to treat yourself and feel good about it at the same time. There are brownies and cookies, as well as tasty peanut butter cups. They also feature milkshakes on their menu, so people can choose from a variety of flavors to combine with an almond milk base.
I visited Taste Buds during an afternoon outing with my little brother and sister. My sister ordered the veggie burger with fries and a side of ranch, my brother ordered the garden salad, and I ordered the raw kale salad. We also shared green beans, teriyaki tempeh, and mashed potatoes with gravy from the hot bar. The portions were generous, so we took home some leftovers.
The raw kale salad was delicious and filling. Topped with a generous portion of walnuts blended into a mix with olive oil and lemon, the apple cider vinegar and cayenne dressing perfectly complemented the fresh greens.
The coconut mashed potatoes paired with the cashew mushroom gravy was amazing. Though their hot bar options change every day, the mashed potatoes and gravy are a popular feature. If you’re curious about what the day’s hot bar choices are, the restaurant posts the hot bar menu on their Facebook page every day. A quick online search of Taste Buds Ukiah will lead you to their page.
As I walked into the dining area of Taste Buds, and after peeling my eyes away from the art and photographs that filled the space, I noticed a poster on the back wall. It was pretty unassuming, and my first thought was that it was one of those food safety posters restaurants often display. After getting closer to it, I realized it was actually a detailed description of their goals and values for the restaurant.
Highlighted in the description is the restaurant’s belief that food is medicine. This is clearly evident in the choices featured on their menu, and also by the quality of foods they choose to use in the kitchen. All of the food and oil they use are non-GMO and organic. The farmers they purchase their food from share the restaurant’s belief in both sustainability and the idea that what we choose to put in our bodies is a fundamental part of leading a healthy lifestyle. The poster also details the health benefits of some of the foods they use in their kitchen, such as the antioxidant properties of coconut oil, the high amounts of iron and anti-inflammatory properties of kale, and lentils’ ability to increase energy.
Beyond the health benefits of a vegan diet, there are environmental benefits that come with reduced meat consumption. Given that the meat industry is one of the biggest contributors to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change through the use of large amounts of water and land, as well as heavy usage of fossil fuels, people can also reduce their carbon footprint by reducing meat consumption.
While there are many reasons why a vegan diet is not an option for everybody, people who do have the ability to add a few meatless days to their week can make a big difference to both the earth’s health and the health of their bodies.
If food is medicine, Taste Buds’ food begins a journey towards healing. Visit them for a delicious start to your own pathway toward a healthier future.
Taste Buds is located on 405 S State Street in Ukiah. They are open Mon-Sat from 11am to 7pm. They can be reached at (707) 463-2253.
Mayte Guerrero was born and raised in Anderson Valley, where she developed a deep love for the natural world. She is naturalist who hopes to create wider access to public lands and engage in conversations that expand the definition of what it means to love the earth.
