Milla Handley
A Pioneer for Women and Wine
by Holly Madrigal
Milla Handley wanted to make wines with a come-hither quality, to create flavors that beckon you to learn more, full of complexity and nuance. Wine that hints of a life of intrigue, just steps away around the corner. In some ways, this is like the woman herself. A pioneer among Anderson Valley winemakers, Milla Handley passed away last year. Her legacy lives on in her children and the delicious wines of Handley Cellars.
Milla attended U.C. Davis because it was the one college where she could bring her horse. She initially pursued many of her passions in veterinary science and art. She settled on enology because, when she dreamed of her future, she knew that she wanted a life in the country, and enology could provide that while offering a decent living. She saw it as a way to combine her love of science with art to create a product that could be enjoyed. She met her husband, Rex McClellan, at Davis, and they decided to embark on a journey to find this rural life.
Milla and Rex moved to Sonoma County after graduation to hone her winemaking craft, but they settled in Anderson Valley when Rex got a job with Navarro Vineyards. Shortly after giving birth to her first daughter, Megan, Milla met legendary winemaker Jed Stelle at a playgroup. Jed was working with Edmeades at the time, and Milla soon went to work with him. She learned a great deal from Jed, but following her own independent streak, she set out to make her own vintage. After a trial year spent making wine in the basement, her first official vintage was a 1982 Chardonnay which won a gold medal at the Orange County Fair.
Those accolades helped launch Handley Cellars, and in 1985, Milla and Rex purchased the land where the vineyards and tasting room still sit, nestled in the golden hills in the deep end of Anderson Valley. Initially they planted grapes for sparkling wine, but they pretty quickly shifted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Adding some blocks of Gewürztraminer, an Alsatian white varietal, was a nod to Milla’s mentor, Hans Kobler, then-owner of Lazy Creek Winery. Handley Cellars’ love of the Alsatian varietals continues to this day.
Professionally developing as a winemaker is a lifelong commitment, urging the desired flavors to prominence, balancing the notes to make the perfect end result. In recent years, an increasing number of female winemakers are in the industry, but the number of vineyard owners and labels helmed by women is still very few (some reports show 13%, with 25% of female/spouse co-ownership). Many were inspired by or aware of Milla’s work in Anderson Valley. She took time to mentor, to speak, and to teach what she had learned.
There is still a long way to go in the acceptance of women in this traditionally male-dominated field. Milla was the first woman winemaker and owner in the U.S. to establish a wine label with her own name. “My mom did it all. She made the wine, made the sales calls, and managed the business,” says daughter, Lulu Handley. “She was a maven and was able to buck trends because she really didn’t care what people thought about her.”
Somehow, Milla managed not to be too affected by either praise or criticism. “She was able to set a course and stick to it. She got incredible reviews early on but did not let that sway her from making wine the way she wanted to. Harsh comments rolled off her back. I admired that ego was never part of it,” adds Lulu. Handley wines were crafted to a level of excellence because of Milla’s vision. “Something beautiful that came from her passing was having all these women in the wine industry sharing how she had helped them either by mentorship, or by simply existing in this space as a successful female winemaker and vineyard owner, showing them that their dreams, too, were possible.”
Milla sought to bring forth the taste of Anderson Valley in her wines. She understood that the area was worthy of broader recognition. Revealing the terroir with a deft touch, she felt like a champion for the area by making wines that really represented this place. She originally crafted sparkling wines that elevated the most simple meal, creating a celebration. “There is something magical about the sparkling wine. A bottle of bubbles can transport you,” Lulu muses. Milla liked delicate wines that did not knock you over the head. Describing her excellent Pinot Noir, Lulu shared, “She made wine that beckons you from across the room. Ones that were beguiling, intriguing, welcoming you in.” She liked wines that were a little mysterious. She made wines that kept you interested, ready to explore more, meant to be shared at the table paired with a wonderful meal.
Handley Cellars continues to hold the flame of her legacy. Lulu has been involved with running the business since 2016, around the time that her mom retired. Winemaker Randy Schock worked alongside Milla, learning from her values and skill. Now leading the way, he keeps Handley wines dynamic and evolving, just as Milla would have, bringing forth excellent vintages that retain the high bar set by his predecessor. Looking to the future, they are crafting wines that stem from the original roots of Handley Cellars. Yet they are also exploring new territory, having decided to remove some of the old vines and replace them with an exciting new varietal.
Lulu ensures that Handley Cellars’ devoted customers continue to have access to their favorite Handley vintages. The tasting room has developed a welcoming outdoor garden space to taste flights on site. Or if you want a casual picnic gathering with friends, you can grab a bottle and settle in the Adirondack chairs gazing out over Anderson Valley. The come-hither quality of the wine will draw you in. As you sip your glass of Pinot Noir, imagine Milla Handley inviting you to explore the taste of this place, and you will likely never forget it.
Handley Cellars
3151 Hwy 128, Philo, CA 95466
(707) 895-3876 | HandleyCellars.com
Tastings by appointment | IG and FB : @handleycellars
Holly Madrigal is a Mendocino County maven who loves to share the delights of our region. She’s fortunate to enjoy her meaningful work as the director of the Leadership Mendocino program and takes great joy in publishing this magazine.
