Amazing Pizza & Beer in a Down-to-Earth Setting

by Anna Levy

On a warm evening in early spring, when the novelty of long sunlight and the hope of increased rates of coronavirus vaccinations coalesced to entice people outdoors, a small (and distanced) crowd gathered to listen to live music on the makeshift patio of Piaci Pub and Pizzeria in Fort Bragg. The mood was festive, if a bit cautious, almost as if dining outdoors on such a night was too much good to hold after a long year spent largely in isolation.

It’s unsurprising that such a scene unfolded at Piaci. The restaurant, which has operated in a tucked-away nook of town for the past 20 years, has always excelled at creating a feeling of jovial community. It’s easy to remember crowded winter evenings there when every wooden stool was taken—regulars telling stories at the bar; families sharing tables with strangers who often felt like friends by the end of the meal. Though such things feel both spontaneous and serendipitous, Stephen Duerr, who has owned the restaurant since 2003, explicitly fostered that spirit of togetherness. “We live here,” he explains. “We want to be part of the community, and we want people coming in here to feel like part of the community.”

The restaurant—cash-only, with an ATM in the back—has drawn legions of fans hungry for a taste of the experience. Pizzas are sold whole, rather than in slices, but regulars know that it’s possible to order more than one type on any size larger than a small. With a range of toppings from prosciutto and pears to pepperoni and pesto, the customizations seem limitless. And though pizza gets top billing on the menu, Piaci also offers salads, calzones, focaccia, and more.

The on-point thin crust pizza and other tasty dishes are not the only reason people flock to Piaci’s. Above the bar is a frequently-updated chalkboard that displays an esoteric and ever-changing selection of craft beers. Recent brews included Wild Turkey Bourbon Barrel Stout, Death & Taxes Black Lager, Dirty Bastard Scotch Ale, and Friends with Benefits Dry Hopped Cider. Clearly excellent ales are the pride of Piaci’s, with the following declaration carved into a ceiling beam: Then long may here the ale charged Tankards shine; Long may the Hop plant triumph o’er the Vine.

Stephen emphasizes the importance of tapping into local purveyors and creating a menu built on excellent food and diverse drink choices. The restaurant had been open for about 16 months when Stephen purchased it. At that time it offered, “… seven or eight beers on tap, maybe eight pizzas, a couple calzones, three salads.” It was a dinner-only spot, and though Stephen quickly started offering lunch as well, he kept to the model that was working so well. “We knew the pizza crust was a solid base, so we just tweaked it a little bit.” Other than that, the basics were already laid out: “Thin crust pizza, high quality beers, using high quality ingredients. That’s it.”

The guidelines for Piaci remain simple, dependent on the restaurant’s one way of cooking—the pizza oven in back—and ingredients that stand out because of their quality. With lettuces for salads grown locally; meat sourced from Roundman’s and a butcher in San Rafael; gluten-free crusts from a bakery in San Anselmo; and a beer and wine list showcasing producers in Mendocino, Humboldt, and Sonoma counties, the vast majority of Piaci’s food and drink are produced in California. “Everything is scratch-made in the kitchen,” Stephen explains.

With this formula, Piaci’s fan base has grown, largely dependent on faithful locals and tourists. “We don’t really advertise,” Stephen says, admitting that the space, just 800 square feet including the kitchen, tucked off of Highway 1, isn’t the most visible. Yet when thoughts of moving the restaurant have come up over the years, it has never seemed quite right. “This isn’t a huge town. We don’t need 100 seats,” he explains. “There aren’t a lot of people to keep it going in January. I don’t have to hire seasonally. If it’s a slow time, there’s plenty of work for our staff. We just keep on trucking.”

This past year, of course, has brought challenges that no one could have imagined, and Stephen has found himself grateful for the straightforward nature of Piaci’s model. The priority all along has been to keep the staff safe and employed, but the financial impact of the pandemic was undeniable. “Usually in the summer, you bank as much as you can, but with the pandemic and the shutdown, it was getting tight. We started backsliding, and once you get a little behind on a food bill, it’s tens of thousands of dollars.” A PPP loan helped the restaurant stay afloat, and help from the city, in terms of allowing outdoor dining, was crucial. “The city made it clear and simple to be able to serve outside,” he says, even as he laughs about the safety concerns that came with simply marking off parking spots for tables and chairs.

A metal roof allowed the outdoor space to become more defined, and “that’s really what kept us open,” Stephen admits. “Even in the wintertime, I had people who came in every day. It’s raining sideways and I felt like, God bless you.” It has also opened up new possibilities, as Stephen says that he’d like to work with the City of Fort Bragg and the Alcoholic Beverage Control Board to make the outdoor space permanent. “Hopefully we’ll have an outdoor beer garden forever. That would double our capacity and add one or two staff members every day.”

There are other ideas that Stephen has for the future. Regular live music is on his wishlist, and he describes a potential stage and lineup of local artists. In addition, “I would really like to get back into the catering thing a little bit,” he says, reminiscing fondly about a particular job catering for one of the owners of the San Francisco Giants. He is also considering new adventures for the future, such as outfitting a food truck for festivals.

For the time being, though, Stephen says the focus is on simply being able to continue offering the community what Piaci has come to be known for. “I just need to make sure Piaci survives and that our staff is comfortable, healthy, well-paid. We have a solid kitchen, and we have to give credit to staff members who can be both entertaining and deal with the stresses of people coming in. Without that help, there’s no way you’re going to make it.” Many staff members have been at Piaci for more than a decade, and Stephen expresses deep gratitude for their presence, commitment, and professionalism. “They make it so that I can get everything I need to get done, done. I credit all of them.”

Ultimately, whether navigating a pandemic or simply delivering on the promise of a consistently good meal, Piaci has come to be seen as not just a local favorite, but also a stalwart of this town. And whether it’s supporting local purveyors, highlighting regional beverages, building a sustainable workplace for staff, or inviting customers to return, Stephen knows that part of the reason it’s all possible is because of this particular coastal area. “I like the impact one person has on a small-town community, as opposed to some place like Manhattan, where I lived for a long time. Here you can get elected to city council. You can help people who can’t feed themselves. You can do a lot to help support your community. I appreciate that a lot.”

And in this moment, when people are ready to discover the new normal that life in a post-pandemic world may create, it seems that Piaci is positioned well to remain a favorite. Whether cozied up inside its well-loved space or sitting together—and distanced—outside, it’s clear that pizza, beer, and good times remain forever on Piaci’s menu.

Piaci Pub & Pizzeria
120 W Redwood Ave, Fort Bragg
(707) 961-1133

Open Sun–Thu 11am–9pm, Fri & Sat 11am–10pm
Hours subject to change

Anna Levy has a passion for writing and travel. She and her family live on the coast.