Shelter Cove Avocados
Growing a Tropical Treasure in the Northern Wilds of Humboldt
by Holly Madrigal
Cape Mendocino, just up the Lost Coast from Shelter Cove, forms the elbow of the state. The westernmost point of the contiguous U.S., this little town grips the coastline, a landing strip running end to end because many residents continue to fly in to fish, surf, or relax within view of the craggy cliffs. Shelter Cove is south facing, despite the general illusion that the coastline so blue on the horizon is to the west. The area is known for fish, forestry, and cannabis, but its hidden secret is a surprising crop—avocados.
The challenge of growing what is considered a sub-tropical plant on the foggy northern California coast did not deter Trent Sanders. As a longtime resident of Shelter Cove, Trent had his attention piqued by a neighbor. “There is a house down by the beach with a huge avocado tree, and it was an inspiration to me. It must be 30 or 40 years old. I saw that growing and thought, what the hell, that thing is huge! You can grow avocados here!”
Trent speaks with the rapid-fire speech of someone whose mind goes a mile a minute. His youth belies an extensive knowledge of growing and landscaping. His dog Winston explores at our feet as we tour the orchard. Trent originally started with two small trees. “I planted these near my house, and they almost didn’t make it. The first two or three years they just looked horrible. They were really struggling. I almost cut them out two or three times, but once we put the lawn in around them and built up the topsoil, they took off. They really want that regular consistent water and lots of food.” He planted thirty more, terraced near the house, and then bought another ninety and planted them on a lot across the street from his stunning hillside home. Trent now tends about 130 avocado trees in an area no bigger than an acre. He bought these from a commercial grower in Fallbrook, near San Diego. They said, “You’re crazy! Avocados won’t grow in Northern California,” Trent recalls. But when they learned he was in Shelter Cove, the grower said it just might work. He had heard of the microclimate up there. “We believe this is the farthest north orchard in California. It’s all small subdivided lots up here, no flat acreage. So those who are growing are on hillsides and terraces.”
This sleepy town of 850 is as out of the way as you can get, about an hour and a half from the nearest larger town of Redway on Highway 101. Many people come to this corner of Humboldt County for the fishing. A lone surfer catches breaks in the cove, and the local brewery, Gyppo Ale Mill, serves up tasty brews to locals and the hikers reaching the end of the Lost Coast trail, none of them aware that, less than a mile from the water is an avocado orchard tucked in amongst the fir trees. “They don’t like it hot, they don’t like it cold. They like that medium, Santa Barbara-like weather. They are finicky bastards,” Trent laughs. “For how far north we are, they do amazing.”
A low ridge separates us from the ocean, and Trent says that the small ridge tends to deflect most of the strong wind. This hillside forms a bit of a sunbelt. In fact, the sun is shining down as we look past the orchard to the Lost Coast cliffs in the distance.
Trent describes how to create the ideal conditions. ”You want to plant them in the spring because they need the whole season to get their roots in. They don’t have a big tap root, they tend to have a web-ball of superfine roots. They want regular water but not too much. They love the rockier and well drained soil. I planted mine about 9 feet apart, closer than the 15 feet usually recommended for fruit trees. I planted the citrus first then added the avocados in a grid around them.”
Avocados are botanically a berry with a single large seed surrounded by buttery flesh. Satsumas, meyer lemons, and orange trees are laden with fruit next to the dark green foliage of the Haas, Reed, and Lamb Hass avocado varietals. “They say the Mexicolas are good for cooler climates but I prefer the Haas. They just have excellent flavor, and that other variety never worked that well here.” Haas avocados are the most common cultivar. (Geek note: All Hass avocados are descendants of a single “Mother Tree” planted by a mail carrier in La Habra Heights.) Avocados can self pollinate, but Trent recommends growing a couple of Zutanos to help with pollination. “The trees are an A and B type. The flowers all open at different times, so if all the blossoms of one Haas tree are open, you want a good pollinator tree nearby. It will increase the yield.” So for every twenty fruiters, you want to plant one Zutano pollinator.
Trent tends his corner of Eden, filling the yard and orchard with diversity. “This hedge here is pineapple guava, that fence line over there is passionfruit.” Trent easily climbs up the low hanging branches and grabs a few ripe fruits. “These Zutanos get a dusty, matte color, and they ripen green. The Haas turn black when they are ready. There is lots of fruit on this one too, even though it is a pollinator,” he says as he plucks the fruit. “You can harvest at your leisure. The fruit sets in April or May. They have these tiny little BB-sized fruits in April, then by August or September it grows to about the size of a golf ball. They will get to regular avocado size, but you can let it hang a whole other year before you pick it and it will just get creamier.” The little trees produce 30-50 each year, but they hang so they are not all ripe at once. Trent sells them at farmers markets in Arcata and in town.
It seems nothing short of a miracle to be standing in an avocado orchard here at the edge of Humboldt County, but Trent shows that it can really be done. His enthusiasm for the fruit is contagious, making even moderate gardeners want to give it a shot. He has a friend that grew an avocado from a grocery store seed sprouted on the windowsill, so who knows. Perhaps there is local guacamole in our future after all.
