Fall’s Gems
Versatile & Aromatic Quince
by Cozette Ellis
The Boonville Hotel’s Chef, Perry Hoffman, gets really excited about seasonal foods. I mean, really excited. So when I asked about what he looks forward to when fall comes, all he could talk about was quince, quince, quince!
The most sought-after culinary quince is a varietal known as Pineapple Quince, which Perry describes as “intoxicatingly aromatic” and “as important as asparagus is to spring.” A unique fruit, quince is almost indebible raw—it’s exceptionally astringent due to an abundance of tannins while its pectins make it jaw-breakingly hard. Once it’s cooked, however, its sweet and somewhat tropical flavors emerge. It also lasts for an incredibly long time after it is harvested, much longer than its autumn sisters, apples and pears.
You can poach, steam, or roast quince, put it in chutney (which is a staple at the Apple Farm), make membrillo (spanish quince paste), quince lemonade, shrub, and even ratafia (quince-infused vodka). Or, take a chance and make the recipe that Perry has created especially for this article. I can assure you it will be delectable.
Autumn Quince and Gorgonzola Salad
Ingredients
1-¾ c water
1-½ c sugar
15 black peppercorns
4 strips of orange zest
2 bay leaves
Juice of half lemon
¾ c red wine
2 medium pineapple quince
1 tsp grainy mustard
2 tsp cider vinegar
4 T olive oil, plus extra to finish
Salt and black pepper
2-½ c mixed seasonal greens (such as arugula, chicory, mustard)
4-5 oz Gorgonzola (Grazin' Girl gorgonzola from Valley Ford or Pennyroyal Boonters blue are great)
½ cup shelled unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted, some whole and some roughly chopped
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 275° F.
Take a medium-sized heavy pan that can go in the oven—make sure it has a tight fitting lid. Place the water, sugar, peppercorns, orange zest, bay leaves, lemon juice, and red wine into the pan. Bring to a light simmer, removing from the heat as soon as the sugar dissolves.
Meanwhile, use a vegetable peeler to peel the quince, retaining the skin. Cut and core the fruit vertically into quarters with a heavy knife, keeping the cores as well. Cut each quarter into two segments.
Place the quince segments, skins, and cores into the sugar syrup. Cover the pan and place in the pre-heated oven for about two hours. After this time, the quince should be completely tender. Remove from the oven and leave to cool, uncovered.
Whisk together until smooth the mustard, vinegar, oil, four tablespoons of the quince cooking liquid, ½ teaspoon of salt, and a good grind of black pepper.
Place some salad leaves on four serving plates. Arrange four quince segments per portions and some hand-broken pieces of Gorgonzola on the leaves. Build the salad up by placing a few more salad leaves on top.
Spoon the dressing over and scatter the pistachios on top. Finish with a light drizzle of olive oil. Alternatively, arrange in a large central mixing bowl and bring to the table.
Yields four servings.
The Boonville Hotel
14050 Hwy 128, Boonville
(707) 895-2210 | BoonvilleHotel.com
