Rancho Gordo Heirloom Beans
by Holly Madrigal
The Rancho Gordo label—a retro image of a woman licking her teeth— is eye-catching, not to mention the gorgeous heirloom beans visible in transparent packaging. It’s clear from the outset that there are no boring beans to be found under this label. Based in Napa, with 38 varieties of beans and legumes available on their website and at almost every decent grocery store, these heirloom varieties have changed the way people view beans. Some examples: pale purple Ayocote Morados; King City Pinks; Vaqueros, looking like nothing so much as an actual Holstein hide; Yellow Eyed Peas; and my favorite, Scarlet Runner beans, with their gorgeous deep crimson speckles. It would take ages just to sample all these delicious offerings.
Rancho Gordo celebrated their 20th anniversary last year, and the expansion from small garden plots grown by owner, Steve Sando, to full-on staple crop sourcing and production has been significant. Rancho Gordo now works with growers in Mexico and Central America through their Xoxoc Project to obtain much of their expansive selection. The company has also branched out into chilis and sauces, grains, and seeds. Steve has written books on the subject. It seems there is a hunger for more beans.
It helps that this relatively simple, calorie-dense food is incredibly good for you. Nutritionists agree that beans are a wonderful source of healthy fiber and protein. Their creamy goodness adds heartiness to soups, stews, and burritos. But Rancho Gordo beans are equally good just on their own. Simply prepared with minimal spices so as not to overwhelm the flavors, these heirloom beans have a richness that makes you understand why almost every cultural diet includes them. Indigenous to the Americas, beans were grown in Mexico as far back as civilization existed there. And Italy, France, and the Middle East all have their own culinary ties to different pulses.
Perhaps that is the market that Rancho Gordo was so poised to develop—the beans from our cultural memories. As much as we are used to bulk commodity pinto and black beans, the ones offered by Rancho Gordo are in a different league. Heirloom varieties are often passed down through generations of families. The diversity on offer is a testament to the genetic variations and conditions that cause one type of bean to thrive in a particular place. Heirloom beans are also often fresher than their generic cousins. Fresher beans can cook faster and even (gasp!) not require the overnight soak. (Ok, the merits of soaking can be debated another day.) Suffice it to say that you want to simmer the beans in water or broth until tender. This can vary depending on variety, size, etc. Stovetop, clay pot, pressure cooker, and even last year’s trend, the Insta-Pot, can cook you up a delicious serving of beans in less time than you’d expect.
Next time you are in Napa Valley, it is definitely worth a stop at Rancho Gordo Beans. The image of the lady licking her teeth is sure to draw you in. The endless options of colorful, flavorful beans will keep you coming back for more.
Rancho Gordo
1924 Yajome St, Napa, CA
(707) 259-1935 | RanchoGordo.com
Open Mon - Fri 10am - 5:30pm, Sat 11am - 5pm