Winter 2022, Fruitful ThoughtsClara ShookDecember 01, 2022

Not Just for New Year’s

Winter 2022, Fruitful ThoughtsClara ShookDecember 01, 2022

Locally Produced Sparkling Wines Are an Every Day Delight

by Lisa Ludwigsen

These days, sparkling wine has moved from a special occasion indulgence to an everyday player in the mix of modern cocktails, especially in northern California, where vintners are producing a wide selection of appealing and often affordable bubbles. While Napa and Sonoma are typically touted for their sparkling wines, Mendocino County’s fine selections certainly hold their own among their splashier counterparts to the south.

Sparkling wines are close, if not identical, to their counterparts made in France, yet the name Champagne can only be used for wine made in that region. Everything else must be labeled sparkling wine.

There is a sparkling style for most every palate and occasion, from French-style L’Ermitage to Brut Rouge, Cuvée Brut, Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noir, Crémant, and Pétillant Naturel. Mendocino growers create their own unique blends using a variety of grapes, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, French Colombard, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and others. Each producer utilizes their individual style and terroir to imbue their product with its own special character. It’s worth venturing out to try them all!

Whatever your preference, wineries in every region in Mendocino County offer first-rate sparkling. From the premier Roederer and Scharffenberger in Anderson Valley, to the certified organic, very dry Blanc de Blanc at Terra Sávia in Hopland, to the 100% estate-grown Brut natural style at Rivino, sparkling enthusiasts and novices will enjoy making their way through the wide selection offered by talented local producers. There are simply too many to mention here.

Ever wondered where all those bubbles rising from the bottom of the glass come from? To put it simply, once grapes have been fermented to create wine, a second fermentation takes place that creates the bubbles. The young wine is bottled, then a small amount of yeast and sugar are added to each bottle to create the second fermentation. (Less expensive sparkling styles, like Prosecco, use stainless steel tanks for the second fermentation.) As the yeast eats the sugar, the resulting carbon dioxide is contained within the bottle, creating the bubbles. The bottles are left alone for a period of time, anywhere from nine months to five years or even longer. Important steps include racking—storing the bottles upside down and turning them regularly—and opening each bottle to quickly remove the spent yeast which can cloud the final product. Labor intensive? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely!

An interesting trend in sparkling wine is called Pét-Nat. Short for the French Pétillant Naturel, Pét-Nat roughly translates to “naturally sparkling.” In short, Pét-Nat is created by trapping the carbon dioxide created during the first fermentation, when the grapes are being transformed into wine. These wines are slightly unpredictable. They are lower in alcohol and lighter in flavor. They may have remnants of the original yeasts, resulting in some cloudiness, and the bubbles may be softer and fewer. The word “funky” is often used to describe them. They are a popular and fun addition to the menu of sparkling wines. Mendocino County producers of Pét-Nat include Fathers + Daughters winery in Philo and Powicana Winery in Redwood Valley, among a few other local wineries.

Sparkling wine enthusiasts should mark their calendars for the Mendocino County Sparkling Wine Festival, which will take place in April 2023 at Terra Sávia winery. Last year’s event featured 10 producers, all from Mendocino County.

Those teeny, tiny bubbles tickle the nose and ignite the imagination. Pop open a bottle of sparkling wine and get the party started, even if it’s a party of two. Begin a meal out with a single glass and set the tone for a lovely meal. It’s a wonderful development in the world of wine that sparkling wines are no longer relegated to the special occasion. Life is short. Enjoy sparkling wine whenever you can.