Olive Oil
Liquid Gold from a Late-Year Harvest
by Lisa Ludwigsen
Frantoio, Leccino, and Pendolino could be the names of a quaint trattoria or maybe the Italian bakery around the corner. In fact, those are the names of small, flavorful Italian olives that produce a unique, Tuscan-style olive oil. While they aren’t ideal for eating due to their small size, relatively large pit, and minimal flesh, these olive varieties produce exceptional oil: complex and bright, grassy, peppery, and pungent. Fortunately for those of us living in the hot, dry regions of northern California, these Italian varieties are just a few of the many types of olives that thrive here.
At last count, there are over 20 producers of olive oil in Mendocino and Lake counties. Most are small batch operations that are adjuncts to other farming endeavors, especially wine production. Olive trees are not only elegant, low maintenance landscape trees, but they also produce food, oil, and wildlife habitat.
One reason olives do so well in inland Mendocino and Lake counties is the true Mediterranean climate, defined by mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. A tiny percentage of global landmass is truly Mediterranean—roughly 3%. Though olives can be grown in other environments, true Mediterranean conditions produce the best olives, which were first domesticated in the 8th century BCE.
According to some studies, those ancient peoples were onto something. The polyphenols, monounsaturated fatty acids, and antioxidants in extra virgin olive oil have been credited with preventing Alzheimer’s, reducing inflammation, helping support the nervous system, and improving heart health, among other health and beauty benefits.
In those ancient times, the oil was extracted by crushing the olives with large stones. The carved base was large and flat, roughly four feet in diameter, and included a lip around the perimeter. A stone in the center supported a wooden post that held a large, wheel-shaped stone perpendicular to the base. The wheel’s rotations along the lip of the base pressed the oil out of the fruit. The concept is pretty much the same today.
Individual oils vary in color, flavor, and intensity. Tuscan varieties result in a pungent oil with grassy and peppery notes, while olives originating from other regions yield different flavor profiles. Larger olives, such as the Spanish Sevillano or Manzanilla, have distinctive qualities that produce delicious oil, whether blended or on their own.
Here at home, planting olive trees and producing oil is a natural fit with the agricultural world. Olive harvest takes place in late November and December, which doesn’t compete with other crops. Stored properly, oil will keep for many months.
Olivino in Hopland is one of the area’s largest olive growers and producers of extra virgin olive oil. Owners Yvonne Hall and Jurg Fisher mill olives for clients throughout the region using two mills, including a traditional stone mill and a hammermill. Yvonne and Jurg also tend 2,500 Tuscan trees on their property, Romendo Ranch, in the highlands of Sonoma and Mendocino counties. Under the brand Terra Sávia, Olivino produces three single variety oils and a blend of five varieties. They also produce the very popular Meyer Lemon Olive Oil.
Olivino’s convenient location just off Highway 101 allows local growers to deliver their olives for milling on harvest day, a crucial step in producing premium extra virgin olive oil. The mills extract oil without the use of heat, since heat degrades quality. In order to receive an “extra virgin” designation, the oil must be free from any alterations in color, taste, nutrients, or vitamins and crushed without the use of heat or chemicals.
“We always put quality and care first with our milling practices,” said Yvonne. “Whether it’s for our own olives or our customers, we are dedicated to producing the best extra virgin olive oil possible. Plus, milling oil for our friends and neighbors gives us great pleasure. We strongly believe that the road to sustainability is easier when traveled with friends.”
One of those friends is Ken Ingels, just up the road in Talmage. Ken trucks his annual harvest of Frantoio, Leccino, Ascalano, and Maurino olives the short distance to Olivino for milling. “Our 350 trellised trees produce between 30 and 70 gallons of oil a year,” shared Ken. That quantity of oil allows Ken to sell at a few local markets—Ukiah Natural Foods Co-op, Harvest Market, Bottle Shop Deli in Talmage, and Schat’s Bakery in Ukiah—and to gift to friends. He also occasionally makes olive oil-based soap.
North of Olivino, along Highway 101, Saracina Vineyards’ tasting room is the setting for a group of stout, gnarled olive trees estimated to be over 120 years old. The trees were transplanted in 2018 from an orchard in Corning by Saracina owner Mark Talb; John Fetzer, who is Saracina’s original owner; and Alex Macgregor, Saracina’s director of winemaking. Macgregor stated, ”Once we decided to move 48 trees from Corning to the Hopland property, we needed to figure out a few critical logistical challenges.” He added, “We felt confident that we could do it, so we heavily pruned them, trenched around the root ball, watered them thoroughly, and then carefully lifted the trees onto a lowboy trailer. The trees had to fit under the freeway overpasses, so they had to be under 14’ tall. Fortunately, we were able to complete the job within one day.” All but one of the trees survived. Historical research through the U.C. Davis Agriculture Department determined that the trees were probably originally planted in 1878 or 1879.
Saracina also uses Olivino for milling. Macgregor stated, “There is nothing more magical than watching olives being processed. When the olives first hit the mill, they make a deep rumble, then it slowly quiets down as the olives are broken down.” He added, “The smells, the entire process really, feels very grounding and authentic. It’s a great time, and we appreciate the quality of work at Olivino.”
Saracina sells oil from their trees exclusively in their tasting room. Stop by to grab a bottle or two for gifts and for your own kitchen. Make sure to tip your hat to the stately old trees out front. If you listen closely, I think you may be able to hear those trees telling stories about the old days.
Olive oil unique to Mendocino and Lake counties is a real treat. Keep your eyes open at local farmers markets, tasting rooms, and grocery stores. It will transform your cooking and eating, and you’ll be taking part in an enduring tradition packed with health, vitality, and deliciousness.
Serving Suggestion: Ice Cream with Olivino Meyer Lemon Olive Oil
Yvonne Hall, co-owner of Olivino olive mill, created this simple, elegant dessert.
On 1-2 scoops of organic vanilla ice cream, drizzle up to a tablespoon of Terra Sávia Meyer Lemon olive oil. Sprinkle a few grains of Maldon’s sea salt over the top. Serve with biscotti.
Lisa Ludwigsen is a writer and marketer working with food, farms, and family small businesses. She has worked in organic agriculture, natural foods, and environmental education for over 20 years.