Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese
A Legacy of Care for Land and Animals
by Lisa Ludwigsen
For Gil and Ana Cox, the principles of regenerative agriculture have always been just a way of life. On a picturesque farm called Summer Breeze Ranch in Little Lake Valley outside of Willits, the couple use their combined eighty years of experience to produce Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese, a delicacy that rivals any in the country. They do this by respecting and paying close attention to the well-being of their animals and their land.
Gil and Ana started their business in 1983 as Carmel Valley Chevre in Carmel Valley. In 2001, they moved to Mendocino County, where they found a supportive, pro-agriculture community, and their business flourished. They have become an integral part of the farming community here.
Their 130-acre ranch is home to a herd of Alpine, La Mancha, and Nubian dairy goats. The ranch operates as a closed system, meaning that there are no outside inputs—everything for the ranch is produced on the property. The goats eat hay grown on the ranch. Their diet is supplemented with dairy produced on the farm. Compost used to fertilize the fields is also created on the farm. Rotational grazing keeps both animals and fields healthy and productive.
The Coxes utilize the principles of regenerative agriculture—a movement which promotes a series of practices addressing the overall health of the land, plants, and animals within the farming system. The phrase was coined in the 1980s by Robert Rodale of the Rodale Institute, and the practices emphasize reducing turning soil, utilizing compost for mulching and fertilizing, increasing biodiversity, and rotating crops including the grazing of animals. These practices improve the quality of topsoil and the ecosystem, and an added benefit is that more carbon is retained in the soils. These farming practices are even catching on with large conventional farms and corporate entities like PepsiCo and Unilever, which are directing their supply chain farms to incorporate regenerative practices.
True to the method, Ana and Gil are on a first name basis with each animal in the herd. “We are close to each of our animals,” said Ana. “They really are the air we breathe.” Gil is the primary cheese maker and, unlike most cheese makers, they do not import any milk to make their cheese.All of their cheese is made exclusively from milk produced on the ranch. This is how traditional small farms and ranches operated in the past, and it works for the Coxes.
“At one point, we had accounts throughout the area and sold at 22 farmers markets each week,” shared Ana. “Now that we’re getting older, we’ve reduced our output to keep it within our capacity.” The Coxes have also been challenged with finding labor to support the farm. “Since our long-term foreman left due to health issues, we have had a very tough time finding a replacement,” she added.
While dairy farming is rewarding, it is demanding work. Goats need to be milked twice a day, no matter what. Even a small herd requires an extraordinary amount of time and knowledge in order to keep it happy and thriving. The ranching and cheese-making aspects of the operation are just the beginning. Production, packaging, and distribution are also all done on-site.
The question of legacy and transition is now on the forefront of their minds. Both Gil and Ana are in their late 70s, and they want to ensure that they can pass on their ranch to new owners who possess the same level of care and spirit. “It’s surprisingly difficult to find people who want to work this hard,” shared Ana. Cannabis has been a big attraction for young farmers, but animals’ needs, especially dairy animals, are very different.
“Our dream is to keep this ranch doing what it’s been doing” Ana said, adding, “Our ranch has great water, 88 acres of hay, a dairy, creamery, and a new barn.” They are also looking into creating a trust or turning it over to a university as an educational resource.
The Coxes’ operation is simultaneously a living history model and a vision for the future. The goal was never to create a national brand or to expand substantially and sell to a corporation. It was to build a business that supports the lifestyle of those involved, utilizing the principles of regenerative agriculture. In a world that rewards short-term profits at the expense of future well-being, it’s a living example of responsible business practices and an immeasurable gift to whoever next stewards the land.
If you haven’t had the chance to sample Shamrock Artisan Goat Cheese, rush out and get some. The level of attention and care are evident in the entire line of delectable cheeses that Ana and Gil create, including creamy chevres, ashed Tomette, Bouchon, and a complex Tome du Mendocino. Shamrock Artisan Goat cheeses can be found at local markets including Ukiah Natural Foods, Renaissance Market in Ukiah, Harvest Market in Fort Bragg, Mariposa Market in Willits, and Geiger Market in Laytonville.
Purchase cheese and find out more at ShamrockArtisanGoatCheese.com.