Stan’s Maple Cafe
Ukiah’s Breakfast Hot Spot
by Geoff Thomas
We English have a reputation for taking our breakfasts seriously. We’ve named our go-to breakfast “The Full English,” and when not politely pondering the weather, we spend a rude amount of time arguing about what a Full English should actually include. Opinions differ, but every variation basically describes a heart attack on a plate. So when I was asked if I’d like to sample an American breakfast at Stan’s Maple Cafe, I was eager to see how a “Full American” would compare.
The sign on an unassuming building at 295 South State Street, Ukiah, says “The Maple Restaurant.” There’s no reference to Stan. There’s also no mention of it being established in 1922. But from the moment we crossed the threshold, we were cosseted in an atmosphere of warmth. The welcome was swift and sincere, and despite arriving at a visibly busy time, the unflappable service staff were instantly circling to help.
It was early Sunday morning and all of the tables were full, but as we settled down in our seats by the window, there was absolutely no evidence of the diners who’d been there before. The turnaround of tables was brisk but also totally unnoticed, and when a service team can achieve that little miracle, you know that they’re all on their toes.
With that same instantaneous ease, our menus arrived and were swiftly followed by coffee and tea, and even though there isn’t a “Full English” on the menu, there’s certainly something there to please everyone. In fact, by using the additions and variations on the section marked “Traditional Breakfast,” I could’ve designed and then trade-marked a “Full American.” To say that I had no desire to do so is certainly a compliment to The Maple.
On “The Light Side” of the menu we found Granola, Fresh Fruit, and Old-Fashioned Oatmeal, and for those with a craving for international cuisine, American Pancakes, French Toast, Belgium Waffles, and good old English Muffins. Of course, there was also the traditional Biscuits & Gravy—which are unlike the biscuits and gravy that we Englishmen know—and Three-Egg Omelets served with a choice of house potatoes, hash browns, or fresh fruit, showcasing a selection of fillings that would make even the most experienced of short-order chefs tremble.
From the section “Traditional Breakfasts” there were, well, traditional breakfasts including vegetarian options, but as we were dining at Stan’s place, we thought it rude not to go for one of his “House Specialties.” Choosing between the State Street Skillet, Joe’s Special, and Huevos Rancheros was difficult, but after skipping past the inviting option of Eggs Benedict from the “Specials Board” and ordering the Fresh Corned Beef, I wasn’t disappointed with my choice.
Atop a generous bed of house potatoes sat The Maple’s deliciously seasoned corned beef with green onions, two perfectly fried eggs, and a masking of red and green chili sauce. It arrived at the table piping hot, wonderfully seasoned, and perfectly cooked. With the last morsel of home-made biscuit, the final drop of deliciousness was mopped from my plate. Washed down with refilled mugs of coffee, it was the perfect start to my day, and the only thing left to do was to find Stan and learn more about his long-established Maple Cafe.
Unfortunately for me, Stan wasn’t there to enlighten me, having sold the restaurant in 2022 to move to Santa Fe with his family. Fortunately for me, The Maple Cafe’s current owner, Judy Hyler, was more than happy to help.
In 1922, brothers Ted and Paul Poulus established Redwood Empire Confectioners on the corner of State Street and Perkins, where they served homemade ice cream and candy to the growing population of Ukiah. After thirty years as confectioners, they transitioned to serving American diner classics and changed the name to The Maple Cafe, a reference to the maple sugar used in their confectionery.
In the succeeding years, ownership of The Maple passed down through the Poulus family, the cafe was relocated to its current location in the 1970s, and in 2012, it was bought by Stan Sangley, a Ukiah native with more than forty years of restaurant experience behind him. When he decided to sellten years later, he had already identified the best person to continue the legacy.
Working as a server before the arrival of Stan, Judy Hyler had never considered a future career in restaurants, let alone taking on the responsibility of ownership. A bundle of smiling energy, Judy told me, “Being a server for the Brown family was fine, being a manager for Stan was fine, but I’d certainly suffered from fear of ownership.” Fear or not, in May of 2022, Judy took over the reins of Stan’s Maple Cafe, which she described as “a diner where the menu’s evolution is really dictated by the customers.” She goes on to explain, “We prepare as much as possible from scratch, and use local grocers for daily delivery of perishables, plus Schat’s for our daily bread [and] Black Oak for our coffee.”
Despite her misgivings, Judy has adapted well to her role at the head of Stan’s Maple Cafe. She is continuously busy, doing five things with her hands and ten things in her mind at the same time, and although she rightly credits each member of the team for making the cafe run smoothly, it’s clear to see that the flow of actions and attitude all stem from her own infectious approach to the challenge.
It’s also clear that Judy values the support of every member of her team, local producers and suppliers, and of course, the eclectic mixture of customers. She’s full of praise for all who make the daily operations possible, and brushes off her own role in the success story as being “somewhat inconsequential.” But as she calmly conducts the kitchen and dining room like an orchestra, it’s evident that the audience members are just as happy and in-tune as the musicians.
Serving breakfast and lunch from 7am to 2pm seven days a week, The Maple is constantly busy. But when the last customer leaves and the team finally retire for the day, Judy’s work continues. “As a business owner, you can’t always control, but you can always create.” And although becoming the owner just as the world began emerging from lockdown hasn’t been without its challenges, Judy and her team have created a business that clearly appears to be thriving.
As for Stan, he now owns and manages another group of successful restaurants in his new home in Santa Fe. As an Englishman whose favourite meal of the day is breakfast, I’d like to thank him for recognising the attitude and abilities of former server Judy, and allowing ownership of his Maple Cafe to pass into her more than capable hands.
Stan’s Maple Cafe
295 S State St., Ukiah
(707) 462-5221 | Stans Maple Cafe
Open daily 7am - 2pm
Geoff Thomas is an English writer living in Anderson Valley. His book, Ashes to Boonville, shares stories from his round-the-world travels by motorbike.