St. Orres
Old School Hospitality and Outstanding Food on the South Mendocino Coast
by Torrey Douglass
According to executive chef Rosemary Campiformio, “St. Orres is a healing place camouflaged as a country inn and restaurant.” Her assertion might be referring to the soothing effects of the towering redwoods that grace the property. Or it could be the stunning view of the ocean combined with the calm shushing of its waves. Possibly it’s the wonderful cuisine—both deliciously fresh and scrumptiously satiating—or the beautiful, Russian-inspired architecture. Likely it is all of the above, coming together to create a food and lodging experience that is decidedly unique and delightful.
This distinctive “country inn and restaurant” sits on 50 acres between Gualala and Anchor Bay, boasting a grand two story building with 8 upstairs guest rooms, as well as an esoteric collection of cottages and cabins around the property. There are a handful of meadows, but most of the land is covered by the aforementioned redwoods. (Side note: The documentary Giants Rising, shown at the 2024 Mendocino Film Festival, shared research that revealed how even just looking at pictures of redwood forests has a beneficial effect on one’s nervous system—though it’s safe to say that experiencing them in person is infinitely more enjoyable.)
In the 1830s, homesteader George St. Orres settled on the original 29 acres. George came from a family of Russian immigrants—a large one, verified by the sprawling family plot at the Anchor Bay Cemetery. He made his living creating the loading equipment that transferred goods to and from ships that used the many “doghole ports” along the north coast.
In 1929, the land was acquired by Sid Johnson, who built a hotel there. Sid rented the 10 upstairs rooms and 5 newly built cabins to fish catchers in the winter and loggers in the summer. Called the Seaside Inn, the hotel included a dining room, general store, and gas pumps to serve travelers passing by. By 1971, the hotel had passed its heyday and fallen into disrepair, at which point it caught the eye and imagination of a master woodworker from Mill Valley named Eric Black.
Eric and friends Robert Anderson and Richey Wasserman pooled their resources and bought the old hotel and property, eventually pulling up stakes in Mill Valley and relocating with their families to this slice of heaven by the sea. Hopefully the gorgeous location compensated for the rustic old cabins they and their families moved into, referred to in St. Orres literature as “funky.”
The partners dismantled most of the Seaside Inn and then rebuilt it according to Eric’s vision. His design was influenced by his father (a well known architect in San Francisco), his experience working in the 1960s as an apprentice carpenter on Frank Lloyd Wright’s Marin Civic Center, and the Russian stave church design of the original structure. He also had building experience under his belt from working on high-end homes in Marin which incorporated the octagon shape so popular at the time.
It took five years of sweat and hustling to prepare the new restaurant and inn for the public. A bounty of local talent contributed to the project, providing bespoke landscaping, wood carvings, light fixtures, stained glass windows, quilts for beds, and prints and paintings for the walls. Together these efforts created a space that is undeniably unique and intriguing, a one-of-a-kind destination that captures the craftsmanship and character of the community.
But there’s a lot more to creating a successful business than a stunning structure. In those early days, a young tax accountant named Rosemary Campiformio, who had recently relocated to Gualala from Berkeley, was hired to set up the accounts and manage the books. Before long, Rosemary had fallen in love with the area and St. Orres itself, officially becoming a business partner in 1975.
Rosemary was integral to the St. Orres inn and restaurant by the time the doors opened in 1976. As a new venture, profits were put right back into the business, so Rosemary got her real estate license to support herself. Her role expanded when, one day in the early 80s, the current chef walked out of the kitchen right before service. Rosemary walked in, and she never looked back.
To this day, Rosemary is the Executive Chef of St. Orres. Raised in Connecticut in a large Italian family, food always played a central role in her life and relationships. Except for a 2-week culinary class taught by Madeline Cameron in Napa in the 1990s, Rosemary is entirely self-taught. She crafts her menus around what’s happening outside the window, including dishes focused on foraged ingredients like mushrooms and berries, and wild game like boar, venison, rabbit, and pheasant.
“I like the specials and menu to reflect what’s local, fresh, and not available anywhere else,” Rosemary shares, adding that the rack of lamb is especially popular. “I love the work that I do, I don’t just enjoy it. When you are in a place for a long time like I am, it’s a springboard for giving to the community, watching families grow, providing a stable place where people can come and celebrate their birthdays, memorials, and anniversaries. And I love feeding them.” While no longer working in the kitchen, Rosemary can still be found at the restaurant most nights, greeting guests and making sure the dinner service goes smoothly.
Guests can sit either in the Seaside Bar or the more formal cathedral-ceilinged dining room. Regardless of where a guest is seated, they can order from the cafe menu (spaghetti with clams, chili relleno with rice and beans, grilled burger, and more) or the somewhat fancier dining room menu (filet mignon, quail, venison, and lobster dishes, to name a few). I started with a salad listed on the menu as “organic greens and blueberries,” a humble description that was outshined by the generous pile of vibrant greens and berries that arrived at my table. It was light and flavorful, a beautiful balance of sweet, spice, and tart achieved with the combination of nasturtium petals, strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries all topped with a tangy dressing.
This strong start was followed by wild mushroom ravioli. The serving size at first had me concerned I’d leave with room to spare, yet the dish was entirely satisfying by the last bite. The pasta pockets were filled with wild mushrooms and parmesan covered in a creamy parmesan sauce, uplifted by fresh cherry tomatoes, basil, and spinach. It was filling without being heavy, luscious but not overwhelming. And while I demurred on the dessert menu, there was plenty there to tempt a person to find a little extra room for a sweet something.
When the restaurant was new, Gualala was not serviced by food delivery companies, so St. Orres got a van to drive to Santa Rosa every week for flowers, produce, meat, and fish. These days the restaurant can get those things delivered, and though the pandemic put some of their former providers out of business, many have now returned and, according to Rosemary, “things are starting to feel back to normal.”
Though they now enjoy the luxury of food delivery, Gualala remains out of the rush and bustle of the busier Bay Area cities found just down the road. “Things are a little slower here, but that’s what we love about it,” Rosemary reflects. That slower pace allows for a more balanced life, and Rosemary takes full advantage. On top of her work with the restaurant and her real estate business, she is a rock hound and a master falconer. “I feel so blessed to be here all this time, living here in this beautiful environment and doing what I love,” she muses. “It’s a well crafted life. People who live in Mendocino County are up here crafting their lives.” With the redwoods and the sea, this piece of the California coast is an excellent location for building those well crafted lives, made all the more delicious by the exceptional room and board to be found at beautiful St. Orres.
St. Orres
36601 S Highway 1, Gualala
(707) 884-3335 | www.saintorres.com
Open Thurs - Mon
Photos by Torrey Douglass
Torrey Douglass is a web and graphic designer living in Boonville. Her life’s joys include reading by the fire, cooking something delicious, and drinking good coffee with a friend.