Radishes
Color, Crunch, and that Quintessential Spring Flavor
by Lisa Ludwigsen
The first time I dined at the venerable Chez Panisse in Berkeley, way back in the early 2000s, the bite-sized amuse-bouche set on our table was a simple plate of oblong, pinkish, whole French style radishes arranged around a small plop of good butter and a sprinkling of some sort of flakey salt. The leafy green tops complemented the bright pink and white flesh on the plate. It was a memorable and appropriate beginning to an unadorned yet elegant meal.
On the other end of the culinary spectrum, my 85-year-old midwestern dad, who usually had no interest in being in the kitchen, would happily slather mushy white bread with Best Foods mayonnaise, cover it with a single layer of thickly sliced, deep red, early summer radishes, and gobble it down with glee. It was his favorite lunch. (He also enjoyed a peanut butter and mayonnaise sandwich, but that’s another story.)
Radishes come in an array of colors, shapes, and sizes. They’re featured in cuisines across a wide swath of the world, and with good reason—radishes are easy to grow and can be eaten raw, pickled, or cooked. They add sweetness, spice, and/or crunch like no other vegetable. Radish greens are edible, too!
Radishes are traditionally a spring or early summer vegetable, though those ubiquitous red globe radishes are widespread in grocery stores year-round, imported from warmer climates. Some local farmers grow radishes in hoop houses during the winter, so grab them if you see them at the farmers market or local grocer. Beyond their bright crunchy and fresh flavor, radishes hold nutritional value as well. One half-cup provides 15% of the daily recommendation for Vitamin C, and they also contain potassium and magnesium.
Keep your eyes peeled for varieties beyond the standard red spheres. Watermelon radishes are especially enchanting given their considerable size, bright pink flesh, and green exterior. These are big radishes with a slightly rough outer skin and a vibrant interior. Though they resemble their namesake, they don’t taste at all like a watermelon. A Guatemalan produce manager I worked with would make a simple guacamole with avocados, lime, cilantro, and salt, which he mounded onto a plate before covering with a uniform layer of sliced watermelon radishes. They added bright circles of pink and green, and a delightful crunch and pop of color to that bowl of green guac.
A cousin of the watermelon radish is the large tubular white daikon radish, a staple of Asian cuisine native to China and Japan. These radishes are the size of a large carrot and, like watermelon radishes, are non-starchy vegetables high in fiber and low in calories and carbs. Their long shelf life and versatility ensures that cooks almost always have a daikon in the fridge to provide crunch and flavor to salads, stir fries, or fermented dishes like kimchi.
I am partial to Easter Egg radishes, named for their pretty pastel hues and oval shape. Those colors scream “Eat me, now!” every time I run across them. They make me happy.
But radishes aren’t just for eating. The unassuming radish has a higher purpose! Caymin Ackerman, owner of Big Mesa Farm in Comptche, uses radishes to improve the soil quality on her organic farm. “When used as a cover crop, radishes can absorb excess nitrogen in the soil, keeping it from being leached into runoff,” she offered. “This helps watersheds, especially in heavy agricultural areas.”
Spring can be a rough time for local veggies as farmers wait for soils to dry out so they can get going with their planting. This year, shine a little light on the multifaceted radish. Their various colors and textures are sure to brighten any meal or palette, such as the versatile recipe that follows, which a friend whips up using any type of radish. It also works well with cucumbers or red onions.
Quick Pickled Radishes
INGREDIENTS
2 bunches radishes, or the equivalent of daikon or watermelon radishes
½ cup rice or white vinegar
½ cup water
1 T sugar
2 tsp salt
Approx ½ tsp peppercorns
½ tsp mustard seeds (optional)
PREPARATION
Thinly slice the radishes and place into as many jars as necessary. Don’t over pack. Heat the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt over medium heat, stirring until the sugar and salt dissolve. Pour over the radishes, stir in peppercorns and mustard seed. Let cool, then chill until ready to use.
The pickled radishes will last approximately two weeks in the refrigerator.
Photo by Jo Lanta courtesy of Unsplash.com
Lisa Ludwigsen is a writer and marketer working with food, farms, and family small businesses. She has worked in organic agriculture, natural foods, and environmental education for over 20 years.
