Authentic and Exceptional Thai Food

by Torrey Douglass

Out on the southern Mendocino coast between the towns of Point Arena and Gualala, Anchor Bay sits inconspicuously, a tiny community tucked between a sheltered curve of coastline on one side and tree-covered hills rising inland on the other. It’s so small you might very well drive right through without clocking it. But that would be a mistake, especially if you are a fan of Thai food.

The bustling commercial center of Anchor Bay is essentially two long, single story buildings facing off across Highway One. On one side is a low, boxy stucco building with a handful of businesses, including a salon, massage spot, and an insurance office. On the other side of the highway is a more traditional building, wood painted light gray, with a jaunty cupola and shallow awning over the front sidewalk. The structure gives genuine Western vibes—saddled horses tied up out front would not look out of place. It faces the ocean and houses its own collection of businesses: a coffee shop, real estate offices, yoga studio, general store, and, at its southernmost end, Anchor Bay Thai kitchen.

Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen is run by Kwan Wong and Jay Arndt, partners who opened their doors in 2012. Almost a decade earlier, Kwan completed her culinary arts training in Singapore, after which she worked in a Michelin-rated fine dining restaurant. Her next career move took her to the kitchens of international hotels in both Singapore and Thailand, where she cooked for the Thai royal family, the American Red Cross, and The Royal Project Foundation. By 2009, Kwan felt ready to run her own show, opening her first restaurant in Bangkok serving authentic Thai cuisine elevated for fine dining.

Kwan comes from a cooking family—both her brother and mother own restaurants around the Northern California wine region. Kwan came to the U.S. in 2011 to help out and live closer to her family. While working at her mom’s restaurant, Ting’s Thai Kitchen near Harbin Hot Springs (unfortunately no longer open), Kwan met Jay. Jay also has deep roots in hospitality. His family owns a number of restaurants in the Bay Area, and he worked for many years in restaurants around Lake Tahoe. With his convivial nature and high energy, he is a natural at front-of-house management.

Before long, Kwan and Jay were looking for the right location where they could open their own restaurant. They didn’t plan on moving to a hamlet of under 500 souls on the edge of Mendocino County, but when the realtor showed them the property, they decided that’s what they’d do.

According to General Manager Tina Kanakanui, the community response was enthusiastic when they opened, and has continued to sustain them. “We survive in the winter with our community,” Tina shared. “They are great, very supportive. A lot of people with properties in Sea Ranch always come back when they are in the area.”

Thailand is famous for its warm and gracious hospitality, and that kindness can be felt in both the service and the food. The menu has a satisfying variety of dishes, with the intent that everyone can find something they like. Dishes include fresh spring rolls, crispy prawns, stir-frys, and curries, many offered with protein options as well as vegetarian and gluten-free versions. Spice levels can be adjusted for the customer’s preference, and stir-fry dishes are cooked using cholesterol-free rice bran oil. There’s even an outdoor patio for diners who want to bring their pup.

Over the years, Jay has created strong relationships with local food purveyors, be they farmers, fish catchers, or foragers. The restaurant’s website proudly states, “Our philosophy: As eco-conscious owners, we believe in sourcing when available local ingredients which results in good Karma, good for our community, and good for the world by creating a smaller carbon footprint.” They purchase organic produce whenever possible from farms like Roseman Creek Ranch in Gualala and Oz Farm and Anchor Bay Farm in Point Arena. Seasonal specialties might feature locally caught seafood and crab or locally foraged wild mushrooms. In fact, Jay is a devoted forager himself, and will join other foragers on their forest forays once the year turns wet and cold, returning to the restaurant with his own haul of golden chanterelles and porcinis.

Kwan and Jay’s “local first” priority is also reflected in both the beverage menu and even the interior art. Except for the Thai beer Singha, all the beer and wine on offer are made in the area, with options like Navarro Vineyards Pinot Noir and Anderson Valley Brewing Company’s Boont Amber ale. The vibrant wall mural was created by Nicole Ponsler, a well known artist from Point Arena. Creations by other local artists adorn the walls as well.

My dinner at Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen started with the tofu spring rolls made with lettuce, carrots, cucumber, mint, basil, and cilantro wrapped with rice paper. They were light and refreshing, the mint and basil flavors pronounced without being overwhelming, and complemented by a pungent sweet and sour sauce that had just the right balance of sweet and heat.

The tofu pumpkin curry followed, a red curry simmered with a rich coconut milk containing green beans, pumpkin, zucchini, carrots, bell pepper, peas, bamboo shoots, and basil. The gently fried tofu had great texture, and the veggies were bright and tender. Served over rice, the dish was deliciously satisfying and packed with flavor. With food like this, it’s no wonder Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen has become a favorite among locals and not-so-locals alike, with some devoted customers making the hour and 15 minute drive from Fort Bragg regularly.

The owners close the restaurant from time to time in order to travel to various cooking gigs. In 2013, Millennium International Hotels asked Kwan to cook for a VIP party for Oliver Stone at the Millennium Biltmore in Los Angeles. Then in 2015 and 2016, she went to NYC to work as the private chef for Thailand’s prime minister, Prayut Chan-o-cha, when he was in town for the U.N. General Assembly. Fortunately, Kwan and Jay always make it home and open back up to resume serving their superb Thai food to hungry customers.

A perusal of online reviews reveals not just enthusiastic praise for the scrumptious cuisine available at Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen, but a consistent whiff of incredulity that such excellent fare can be found in a place that seems, to the untrained eye, to be located on the distant edge of nowhere. Perhaps it is a long drive for most, but the scenery is stunning, the welcome is warm, and the food is, without a doubt, fit for royalty.

Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen

33517 S Highway 1, Anchor Bay
(707) 884-4141 | anchorbaythai.com

Open Tues - Sun, 4pm - 7pm

Photos of Kwan courtesy of Anchor Bay Thai Kitchen. All other photos by Torrey Douglass.