Ocean to Plate
Buying Fish Right Off the Boat in Noyo Harbor
by Terry Ryder
California fisheries are considered a “Legacy Industry” that sustains local families while helping to attract tourists. Shockingly, the California commercial fleet that included 5,000 boats in 1980 diminished to only 464 vessels by 2022, and Fort Bragg is home to 103 of these registered commercial fishing boats. The fish catchers who are still fishing are finding it increasingly necessary to “adapt or die.” Fortunately, Noyo Harbor seems to have some very resourceful people who have taken this challenge to heart and devised some innovative ways to help get the freshest fish onto your dinner table.
Dan Platt, aka Captain Dan, is a commercial fisherman, diver, and owner of Noyo Harbor Tours in Fort Bragg. He owns two boats: the Zhivago, a converted 1931 former Coast Guard craft for fishing, and The Noyo Star, his eco-friendly electric tour boat. The recent tough times in California fisheries encouraged Dan to think outside the box. To improve his bottom line, he is sometimes able to sell his fish direct from his boat to customers on the dock, cutting out the middleman. He has a fisherman’s retail permit that allows him to sell whole fish using a state certified scale. The customer pays for the whole fish, which Dan then happily cleans and/or fillets, as requested. You can’t get any fresher than this, and it shows in the flavor and texture of the fish.
As a member of the Pacific Fisheries Management Council, Dan has been instrumental in exploring sustainable fishing practices. He will fish and sell salmon if there is a legal season for it. At other times, he sells rock fish (there are 32 different kinds) or sablefish. His fish are caught on hooks mid-way between the surface and the bottom. He often fishes alone as far as seven miles out. Only the fearless need apply. “Conditions can change quickly,” he says calmly and with a steady smile. “I love the water so much that I need to be around it.” His harbor tour business helps to “keep him afloat” when fish seasons are lean or closed entirely. His hour-long tours of Noyo Harbor are fun and educational—perfect for families, and his sunset tours (bring your own wine) particularly appeal to adults.
With 40-plus years in and around Noyo Harbor, Dan knows what is going on and is generous in sharing his knowledge. He often mentions other fish catchers who are working hard to bring fresh fish direct to customers. He has great praise for Harbormaster Anna Neumann, who is trying to build up the “Blue Economy,” which, according to the World Bank, is the “sustainable use of ocean resources for economic growth, improved livelihoods, and jobs while preserving the health of ocean ecosystem.”
A conversation with Anna reveals her dedication to all things sustainable, ecological, and environmentally sound. She is working to bring traditional farmers market vendors down to the docks to sell their products alongside the fishermen. The Noyo Harbor would like to see a Fisherman’s Market once a month, meeting near the Fisherman’s Memorial and the Harbor office at 19101 South Harbor Drive.
Using a grant from the State Economic Development Department and working with the West Center Business Development Office, Anna is hoping to have an online notification system built into the Noyoharbordistrict.org website by mid June. If customers want to buy fish off the boats on the dock, they will be able to find out when and where. Traditional physical signs are also posted around the harbor when the fishermen are “in” and selling.
Taking things a step further, Laura Miller and Rich Holmes, owners of a 32' x 11' salmon trawler called The Animal Fair, have developed an online selling system that allows customers to buy their fish before it even hits the dock. Customers can provide them with an e-mail address (at salmonlumi.com), and they will provide 1-2 days notification of when they will be selling. After the fish have been caught, patrons can submit their request online, and the fish will be bagged, tagged, and ready for pick-up as soon as the boat docks. Dan believes that the dock sales are best suited to smaller boats like his, as the larger boats can probably use their time more profitably selling their whole catch wholesale. Laura notes, “In the life of a modern fisherman, you have to be open to change and to try new things … Word of mouth does wonders in a small town.”
On days when the fisher-catchers are not selling from the dock, fresh local seafood can be found at Princess Seafood Market or the Princess Restaurant. This all-female crew, headed by owners Heather Sears and Wendy Holloway, catch fish aboard their boat, The Princess. The catch is given a blast freeze at sea to seal in freshness. The flavor of their fish is noticeably more delicious than what can be purchased at a supermarket. For smoked local fish, head to Roundman’s Smokehouse in downtown Fort Bragg. Harvest Market in Fort Bragg’s Boatyard Shopping Center also sells locally caught fresh fish.
So next time you get a yearning that only seafood will satisfy, head to Fort Bragg. You are guaranteed to find something super fresh and tasty no matter when you go.
Go to noyoharbordistrict.org to learn about events and news for Noyo Harbor in Fort Bragg.
Terry Ryder Sites lives in Yorkville with 4 cats and 1 husband. A graduate of Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey Clown College, she writes a weekly column for the Anderson Valley Advertiser. Photos by Terry Ryder
