Alta Orsa
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by Terry Ryder
When I get Martin Bernal-Hafner on the phone, he’s multitasking: answering my call, raking grapes out of harvest bins and onto sorting tables to remove stems and leaves, and giving workers instructions in English and Spanish. It’s only October 7, but it’s the last day of harvest, and also the last 100-degree day of the year—2024’s harvest season was hot and fast.
Martin is the winemaker and general manager at Alta Orsa Winery in Hopland. Formerly Topel Winery, it was purchased in 2018 by Roger Peng. Roger and Martin met at Locals, a co-op tasting room in Geyserville. Martin had spent the previous seven years working for Sebastopol- based Paul Hobbs Winery, first as an intern in Argentina and later in California, where he worked a variety of cellar and winemaking jobs. When Roger approached him about the potential to move to Mendocino, Martin was immediately keen. “I was ready to take more on, and it sounded like a really interesting project.”
They changed the name to Alta Orsa: “alta” meaning high and deep rooted, and “orsa” meaning beginning or undertaking. They wanted the name to reflect their own style of winemaking, characterized by a scientific and holistic approach that lets the terroir speak for itself. They kept other things the same—they didn’t replant the vineyard, and they rely on the institutional knowledge of vineyard and production manager, Ricardo Garcia, who has worked on the property for 24 years.
The property is a rugged 160-acre mountain parcel clinging to the hills west of Hopland above the Russian River, of which the vineyard comprises just eight acres, all farmed using regenerative organic practices which are “not certified, but fully in practice,” clarifies Martin. The high-density vineyard, planted in the 1980s, means that tractors can’t be used to till or mow between rows, and everything has to be hand-farmed and harvested. They use animals for grazing—a hallmark of regenerative organic agriculture—and use the barest minimum of organic sprays only when absolutely necessary, like to combat mildew. “We don’t really have pest problems,” says Martin. “Nature brings things into balance if you leave it alone. We take a very patient approach.”
Happily, 2024 was a good season. “For a mountain vineyard, we’re lucky to get two tons/acre, which is about what we got this year,” says Martin. He hasn’t finished those calculations since, in addition to managing the company and making the wine, he’s also the accountant, wine club and tasting room manager, and sole salesperson for the company. Says Martin, “There’s never a dull moment, which I like.”
Alta Orsa makes 10 wines—four under the Orsa label, and six under the Alta Orsa label. Most are estate wines, but several, including a Russian River Pinot Noir and an Alexander Valley Chardonnay, are made from grapes purchased from other vineyards, a common practice for wineries of any size. Mostly, they are known for their Cabernets. The 2019 Orsa Cabernet Sauvignon won a Double Gold medal at the 2024 Mendocino County Fair Wine Competition, and the 2020 Alta Orsa Estate Hillside Cuvée got a whopping 95 points from Wine Enthusiast magazine.
The vineyard has a unique flavor profile due to its steep terrain and tough shale and sandstone soil. “Our diverse topography means that each block of vines has a different expression,” explains Martin. “It’s fun as a winemaker to have all those flavor components—at blending time I have 20 variables to work with.” Most years, Martin makes a special wine using his favorite two barrels of Cabernet of the vintage. He calls it the Soil Series, and it tops out at 50 cases per year. It’s held for two years in the barrel and two additional years in the bottle before release, meaning that the 2020 vintage has only just been made available.
Alta Orsa is a small winery, producing just 1,200 cases per year. “We make a craft product, a true expression of this vineyard,” says Martin. “And because we’re small, we really get to know our customers. When you email the winery, I’m the one who responds. When you schedule a tasting, I’m usually the one who will walk the vineyard with you and take you to do barrel tastings. It’s a very personal experience.” Tastings must be scheduled in advance, and the tasting fee is waived with a wine purchase. Martin shares, “I love combining science, agriculture, and creativity in one job. I have many roles, but fundamentally, I see myself as winemaker.” He feels right at home on the Mendocino mountainside, which is fortunate as his career is destined to continue reaching new heights.
Alta Orsa Winery
PO Box 550, Hopland
(707) 540-4311 | orsawines.com
Photos courtesy of Alta Orsa Winery
Elizabeth Archer is an enthusiastic eater and promoter of the local food scene in Mendocino County. She and her husband run Carson and Bees, a beekeeping operation in Ukiah.