The Loose Caboose Cafe
The Best Hot Sandwiches in Willits
by Holly Madrigal
When my childhood friends come back to Willits to see their parents or to visit, they structure their stay around a stop at the Loose Caboose Café. This restaurant could well be considered a beloved institution. In 1988, Jill Persico (then Pieretti-Cessna) was getting ready for work at her retail job at Sidney’s clothing store in downtown Willits when she overheard a radio program talking about how the cabooses of trains were becoming obsolete. Jill loved the idea of a little romantic café—her favorite place to dine when traveling. As she thought about the sadness of losing the cabooses with their small cozy spaces, somehow the ideas combined in her mind. She thought about making a caboose-themed eatery and calling it the Loose Caboose Cafe.
Locals may remember that the cafe—which turns out hot sub sandwiches, many different salads, and soups—was originally located in the old Country Mall now occupied by JD Redhouse. A former ice cream shop in the front of the mall was closing down, and Jill snapped up that equipment, adding real ice cream milkshakes to the menu. Loose Caboose Café was born, and Jill created a menu with a combination of recipes from her mother—that’s where the meatball sub came from—and a deli called Bensoni’s that used to exist back in the day. Jill’s twist was to serve all of the sandwiches hot.
Loose Caboose moved across Wood Street to its current location and never looked back. Serving up hot sandwiches, salads, and shakes turned out to be a winning combination. The interior has been updated over the years but it remains warm and inviting. A huge mural of a caboose careening through a meadow sets a playful tone. They added a wonderful patio, creating a shady space covered in hanging flowers. Visitors with pups love the outdoor space, where their furry friends can hope for a dropped bite of a sandwich. The focus is on good food and gathering with friends and family. If you are not family, you will be welcomed in as if you are. You can’t stop by without running into a neighbor or high school teacher.
Jill & Aimee
Everyone that I know has a favorite dish, and though they may pretend as if they are perusing the menu, they know what they want and how they want it. Mine is a Turkey Depot with no bell peppers. The savory melted cheese, lettuce, onions, black olives, and mustard combine with the sliced roasted turkey drizzled in an oil and vinegar dressing that is as zesty as it is addictive. The best method is to eat there, in the restaurant, because if you wait you risk losing the perfect toasty crunch of the roll with the hot ingredients within.
I called a friend who now lives in the Bay Area, and she confirmed that she is also a Turkey Depot devotee, and did not appreciate that my call had made her hungry for that very dish. My husband preferred a Vegetarian Station, adding pesto for an extra kick. Others swear by the Meatball Express—I mean, it IS Jill’s mother’s very special recipe from Italy. And though I have my favorites, I went through a phase of getting the Southwest Chicken Salad, as their spicy ranch is crazy good, drizzled on the crunchy greens and topped with tender chicken that is its own delight.
The soups are amazing as well, and don’t just take my word for it. Loose Caboose has won Best in Show at the Sip Some Soup fundraiser for our Daily Bread multiple times. And if you are feeling decadent, get an espresso or chai milkshake before you leave. The Chai milkshake manages to mingle the spices of apple pie with rich ice cream, creating, basically, liquid ala mode.
A commitment to quality and delighting their customers has made this restaurant stand the test of time. Jill reflects, “I figure I will do this as long as I love it. And I still do love it. My Italian upbringing connected family and good food, and that has always been at the center of this work.” Most of the staff in the kitchen have been with Loose Caboose for years, and the business has trained many a young person in the hospitality business. Jill’s generosity in supporting the community goes beyond the restaurant to sponsoring sports teams, events, and nonprofit auctions. At a recent live auction for the Seabiscuit Therapeutic Riding Center, a “Year of Loose Caboose Sandwiches” went for $3,100. “That brought me to tears,” Jill adds, “that our business is so appreciated and valued. I still don’t know who the winning bidder was,” she laughs.
Jill attributes the secrets of her longevity to the consistency of the food and having an onsite owner. “It is important for me to be out there greeting the customers, checking in. I consider myself semi-retired. My daughter Aimee is now stepping in and we are co-managers. We are the perfect team, and she is allowing me to take time when I need to. I know that the restaurant is in good hands. Her sister, Caprice, does all of our bookkeeping. Aimee is helping us shift to the next generation,” Jill says.
Jill’s daughters grew up amidst the hustle and bustle of the business. Both girls moved out of the area, and Aimee and her husband, Ben Dawson (a Willits alum), returned to the area after their boys were off to college. “The boys spent their childhoods running around on the ranch in Willits, and they love to come visit,” adds Aimee. And after nearly forty years in business, Aimee is busy streamlining processes like finally accepting credit cards after 36 years. “We work so well together,” says Jill. “Aimee is bringing the business up to modern standards and ensuring that our business is going strong.” The duo has not wavered in their commitment to the community. Jill’s Catholic faith is very important to her, and she and Aimee have begun teaching confirmation once a week at St. Anthony’s Church in Willits. When I stopped by, Jill had her homework planned to prep for this week’s class. The love of hometown and community runs deep in the ethos of this little café.
Sometimes, when something is so consistent in life, it can get overshadowed by the glitzy and new. But it benefits us all to remember the heart of Willits, which resides in a little shop off Wood Street. The Loose Caboose Café has given so much to the town of Willits, and I cannot imagine a visit without stopping by for a hot sub sandwich and a catch-up on the local buzz. When waitress Liz Persico Day left to spend more time with grandkids after a decade with the Loose Caboose, I remember thinking, “Who else is going to call me sweetheart and get away with it?” But time goes on, and these local favorites keep serving up classically delicious food. Thank you to all the cooks in the kitchen, the waitstaff, Aimee, and most importantly Jill, for warming our hearts and bellies all these years.
The Loose Caboose Café
10 Wood St, Willits
(707) 459-1434 | loosecaboosecafe.com
Open 10am - 3pm Mon - Sat
Photos courtesy of Loose Caboose Cafe.
Holly Madrigal is a Mendocino County maven who loves to share the delights of our region. She’s fortunate to enjoy her meaningful work as the director of the Leadership Mendocino program and takes great joy in publishing this magazine.
