“Over the Moon” Italian Cuisine

by Terry Ryder Sites

It is easy to miss Luna Trattoria while walking the charming streets of Mendocino since the restaurant is not visible from the sidewalk. One must keep an eye peeled for a wooden archway framing a narrow path, a sign reading “Trattoria Luna - Northern Italian Cuisine - Open Tonight,” and an Italian flag. They are found at 955 Ukiah Street, which may sound familiar since a restaurant by that name operated in the space for 25 years, closing in 2018. The timing was fortuitous for Massimo Melani and Marissa Rey, since the Fort Bragg building that contained their own restaurant— Luna Trattoria—had just been put on the market. Massimo remembers, “At first it wasn’t so nice. I don’t like change, but we did like Mendocino.”

So they relocated to Ukiah Street, down a pathway that feels a little like falling down a rabbit hole. The walk is flanked by signs reading “Stay Positive,” “Good Vibes Only,” and “We’re all quite mad here, you’ll fit right in.” Eventually you arrive at the door of an unassuming wooden building with a vintage stained glass window and a crescent moon shaped mosaic. Look to your left to see a glimpse of the outdoor garden complete with fairy lights, fanciful garden statuary, and European-style black and white striped umbrellas.

Decorative details with a celestial theme add a whimsical air to the resturants.

Guest enjoy dining al fresco during the summertime.

Mendocino’s bohemian influence is evident throughout the restaurant. Various art pieces adorn the wooden walls, whimsical knick-knacks are tucked here and there, and beautiful coastal light streams in the windows. Husband and wife team Massimo (chef and wine advisor) and Marisa (front of house organizer) are the welcoming committee, available to make sure guests are comfortable and happy. The space has a vibe that is decidedly playful. Massimo, with his Italian movie star accent, could charm the birds out of the trees. Marisa, with her infectious warmth and alert eyes, doesn’t miss a thing as she oversees everything that happens in the restaurant.

These two are a match made in heaven. Massimo is from Romagna in the province of Ravenna in Northern Italy. He began his culinary career as a waiter in Italy, working his way up through experience, “I learned to cook using my family’s recipes. The food business—it’s in our culture. It is what we grow up to know. It is kind of our life.” He liked what he saw when he visited California in 1995 and decided to move to the U.S. in 1996 to “give it a shot.” He shares, “I miss my family and friends but life is better here. It is possible to get ahead. We never could have done this in Italy.” Marisa had lived and worked in Italy, running a bed and breakfast from 1992 - 2008. The two eventually met in Newport Beach, California, at Dolce Ristorante where Massimo was working at the time.

After they met and fell for each other, they began to dream of opening their own restaurant. They decided to explore Northern California, where it is much less expensive to get started. They opened the original location in Fort Bragg in 2014, then moved to Mendocino in 2018. The move boosted business to the point where reservations are a must, since the place is often packed to capacity.

The menu at Luna focuses heavily on pasta. I counted 15 different kinds of regularly offered pastas, nine “special of the week” pastas, and four entries of “Homemade from Romagna” pastas—Orecchioni, Lasagna Bolognese, Lasagna Vegetariana, and Gnocchi. They also offer several steak and chicken dishes, along with five different salads and eight appetizers. The three biggest customer favorites are Spaghetti Carbonara, Linguine with Clams, and Lasagna. The wine list includes both Italian and California selections.

As an artistic person, Marisa is especially proud of the artwork displayed on the restaurant walls, primarily pieces that have been given to them over the years by both Italian and American artists. While Massimo used to be in the kitchen, he is proud to say that his staff does everything now—pasta, bread, desserts, and meat. “I tell them what I want and they do it, we have a very good crew.” They have 20 employees, most of whom are also immigrants. During the interview the kitchen staff made regular appearances, looking relaxed and happy as they served coffee and prepared for the night’s dinner service. Marisa says, “Our staff is like a family, we laugh a lot here.”

Massimo advises all to “Come to Trattoria Luna for the Italian experience without the passport!” When asked about her favorite part of Luna, Marisa says, “On a good night, when all the seats are filled and everyone is having a good time— especially seeing them enjoy the garden—makes me happy.” At night when the fairy lights are twinkling and live music fills the air, when people are enjoying themselves and Luna’s delicious food, it is easy to imagine the feeling of satisfaction that would bring.

Luna Trattoria
955 Ukiah Street, Mendocino,
(707) 962-3093 | lunatrattoria.com

Open Tuesday - Sunday
Reservations: 5pm, 5:30pm, 7pm, & 7:30pm

Terry Ryder Sites lives in Yorkville with 4 cats and 1 husband. A graduate of Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey Clown College, until recently she wrote a weekly column for the Anderson Valley Advertiser.

Exterior sign and celestial decor images by Terry Rider Sites. All other images courtesy of Luna Trattoria.