Eureka’s Chocolate Artisans are Making Waves

by Holly Madrigal

There is a reason for all that nautical imagery on Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate packages. Adam Dick and Dustin Taylor were ship carpenters before finding their way to making some of the finest chocolate in North America. Adrian Anderson, who works in the cafe section of the chocolate factory on Old Town Eureka’s waterfront, enlightens me about the roots of this beloved local chocolatier. “The lore is that they were on a road trip and heard a podcast about making chocolate from bean to bar. ... They thought, ‘we could do that,’ and gave it a go.”

The business began in Adam Dick's laundry room, then moved to the cafe space at Almquist Lumber and from there to a more expansive space on 4th Street. They moved to their current space on the waterfront four years ago.

The pair’s approach reflects their unwavering focus on craft. “Deeply rooted in a background of woodworking and boat building, we have always loved working with our hands,” the founders wrote. They were drawn to the challenge of making chocolate using small-scale equipment and focusing on the raw components, similar to their style of boat building. Where they used to build with wood and timbers, now they craft with two ingredients: cocoa and cane sugar.

Sticking with the basics allows the chocolate makers to avoid additives like vanilla or other emulsifiers that can mask the nuanced flavors of the cocoa beans. The bar-to-bean approach also includes the practice of “transparent trade.” While the mass-produced chocolate market channels resources to middlemen, transparent trade increases visibility and passes along more money to the farmers. Those funds allow investment in equipment and improve both the economic and physical health of family growers.

Visiting Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate can also be an educational experience. During the summer, chocolate fanciers can tour the factory. In the quieter months of spring, visitors can learn about the chocolate making process while perusing the cafe shop. The cocoa beans are roasted and crushed to form “nibs.” Over the next six hours, a hammer mill grinds the nibs into a silky smooth chocolate. The roll mill blends in the sugar before the mixture goes into the conche—a tank that both stirs and heats the chocolate to evenly distribute the cocoa butter. It takes 48 hours for the process to refine the flavor and texture of the chocolate. Finally, the mixture goes into another machine called a panner, a large, squat, rotating bowl where dried fruits, nuts, and other goodies are enrobed in velvety chocolate.

Strolling around the light-filled cafe, warming my hands on a cup of drinking chocolate, my attention is drawn to a collection of articles and awards. The chocolate sourced from Tanzania has received a Good Food Award, known for highlighting foods of exceptional quality and deliciousness. It’s interesting to see many articles from Japanese periodicals. Clearly great chocolate has international appeal.

Surprisingly, my cup of “Campfire Hot Chocolate” with house-made smoked pecan syrup and a roasted marshmallow on top, is not too sweet. The hint of bitterness balances perfectly with the richness of the cocoa. This could not be confused with Swiss Miss. My tastebuds are working overtime to deciper this deeply flavorful experience.

Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate has continued to gain loyal followers who put a premium on quality. You can find it in a few locations in Mendocino County, including Black Oak Coffee Roasters in Ukiah, Mariposa Market in Willits, and Sun & Cricket at the Madrones, a gift shop in Philo. Next time you are in Eureka, it is worth a stop to taste all the divine confections they make. Applying the precision and care of shipbuilding to crafting fine chocolate produces a bar that will float your boat.

Dick Taylors Chocolate Factory
333 1st St, Eureka
dicktaylorchocolate.com

Open Mon - Sat 8:00am - 6:00pm
Sun 12:00pm - 4:00pm

Photos courtesy of Dick Taylors Chocolate Factory