Humboldt Bay Oysters
A Merry Merroir
by Elizabeth Archer
The North Coast is home to an impressive assortment of the world’s best and most prized foods, and nothing illustrates that point more finely than the famous oysters of the majestic Humboldt Bay. California’s second-largest bay produces the majority of the state’s oysters, a $6 million industry for our neighbors to the north.
There are hundreds of acres of oysters farmed in the bay using “off-bottom techniques,” in which human-made oyster beds are built above the ocean floor. This is in contrast to “bottom culture” oyster farming that prevailed until the end of the 20th century, at which time environmentalists, marine experts, and fishers started understanding and reacting to the damage caused by ocean-floor dredging. Since off-bottom techniques have been implemented, oyster farming has thrived as an industry and has helped the bay thrive in return.
Oysters are like the vacuum cleaners of the ocean. Each oyster filters as much as 50 gallons of water a day, removing pollutants, keeping algae in check, and helping to maintain the bay’s diverse flora and fauna. With a natural tidal design that completely refreshes the bay’s water twice a day, oysters and Humboldt are a match made in heaven.
The hardy Pacific species of oyster, which comprises well over 90% of global oyster production, flourishes in the bay. So do their smaller counterparts (both in size and market share), the Kumamoto species. Similar to Pacific oysters in that they both are from Japan, both tolerate changes in salinity and temperature, and both are delicious to eat. “Kumos,” as they are affectionately known to aficionados, are especially prized for their soft texture, sweet taste, and lack of “fishy” flavor. Thanks to the perfect water conditions, Humboldt Bay Kumos are considered by many to be the best in the world.
One of the main players in the Humboldt oyster game is Aqua-Rodeo Farms (pronounced like the cowboy contest, not the famous street), which sports the delightful motto, “We Round Them Up. You Shoot Them Down.” Owner Sebastian Elrite graduated from Humboldt State University with a degree in wildlife management in 1997 and has been farming oysters ever since. “We’re in a pretty good spot as far as environmental quality,” explains Elrite, “but there are windows where we can’t harvest that are unpredictable. We’re always monitoring for red tides in the summer, and heavy rain in the winter can prevent harvesting.” When booked in advance, “Captain Sebastian” treats visitors to two-hour, low-tide boat rides filled with educational information about oyster farming and the (optional) hands-on experience of harvesting.
Elrite also operates Humboldt Bay Provisions in Eureka. In addition to eating at the oyster bar, visitors can purchase locally made products including wine, beer, cheese, olives, and more. When Elrite eats oysters, he likes to keep it simple: grilled with butter or raw with a zesty cocktail sauce. At Humboldt Bay Provisions, a dozen raw or broiled oysters, likely harvested that morning, costs about $25.
Just like terroir informs how a wine tastes, explains Elrite, merroir—the ebb and flow of the tide, the salinity level of the water—imparts the subtle qualities and flavors of each oyster varietal. Kumos sell themselves; everyone wants them thanks to a very effective marketing campaign. With Pacific oysters, farmers name the varietals they cultivate. Aqua-Rodeo Farms is famous for the Bucksport, so named by Elrite after a town of the same name which became part of Eureka in the late 1800s. Almost all of Aqua-Rodeo’s oysters are sold locally in Humboldt County, with one notable exception: The Peg House in Leggett is one of Elrite’s oldest and most loyal customers.
If you’re looking for a good excuse to head to Humboldt, this year is the 30th annual Oyster Festival, hosted by Arcata Main Street, on June 20, 2020. This is the largest event of the year in Humboldt, attracting more than 15,000 oyster enthusiasts for mollusks, micro-brews, and music. It’s also a kid-friendly affair, incorporates art activities for all ages, and to top it off, boasts a Zero Waste badge. Elrite likes to participate in the festival, so keep your eyes open for Aqua-Rodeo oysters if you go.
With Humboldt Bay heavily monitored by a variety of organizations and governmental agencies, and with the farmers and oysters themselves doing their part to keep the bay healthy, you can feel good about eating these local delicacies. The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch gives off-bottom Pacific oysters the “Best Choice” rating, and oyster-eaters everywhere give them a satisfied slurp salute.
Humboldt Bay Provisions
205 G St, Eureka | (707) 672-3850
www.humboldtbayprovisions.com
Open Mon-Thurs 4:30–8:30pm
Fri.-Sat.1–9:30pm & Sunday1–8:00pm
Elizabeth Archer is an enthusiastic eater and promoter of the local food scene in Mendocino County. She and her husband run Carson and Bees, a beekeeping operation in Ukiah.
Photos courtesy of Humboldt Bay Provisions.
