MacCallum House
Phenomenal Food and Cocktails with an Ocean View
by Holly Madrigal
I’m obsessed with the Elderflower Martini at MacCallum House. The signature sophisticated glass reflects the shape of a woman with her arms reaching toward the sky. The glass is chilled and contains swirling liquid of the palest green hue. Dried rose petals circle gently as I take my first sip. Astringent in the best way, cucumber vodka with only a hint of sweetness. The St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur and Roederer Estate sparkling wine keep this cocktail in the clouds, while the barest hint of orange bitters brings the aroma gently back to earth. I have tried other amazing and noteworthy seasonal cocktails at this establishment. The Smoke & Smash, concocted of Del Maguey Vida Classico mezcal, lime juice, pomegranate, and house made huckleberry sage syrup, is found nowhere else. Served in a tulip-shaped glass, it brings to mind sitting in your favorite leather chair and perusing world maps for your next adventure. The Paper Plane is comprised of Redemption Bourbon, deep umber Aperol, and Amaro Nonino. But I keep coming back to the Elderflower martini, completely under the spell it has cast on my tastebuds.
The restaurant and classical bar at MacCallum House are steeped in history, but the creations from its kitchen are anything but dusty. The former home of Daisy Kelley MacCallum, a wedding present from her father in 1882, is an architectural jewel of Mendocino Village. A total of 19 rooms make up the inn on the main property, with 13 other accommodations elsewhere in the village. One of my favorite rooms is the whimsical, pagoda-roofed former playhouse to the west of the main building. The wrap-around porch holds a number of dining tables, each with a view of the waves crashing in the bay, and within is a cozy dining lounge complete with roaring fire to ward off the chill.
The space reflects the best part of the house’s historical stature, and yet the design and culinary offerings are fresh and modern. Classical architecture is a standout from its Victorian time, and the garden’s lush landscaping boasts electric vehicle charging stations tucked discreetly into a rustic cabinet. It is easy to see why so many choose the expansive lawns for vows and receptions. This location is classic in the best sense, retaining the beauty of another time while pushing the culinary edge.
Chef Alan Kantor helms the kitchen at MacCallum House, with Aaron Welge serving as sous chef. Kantor has a long history with the locale, starting from before his culinary school education, when the restaurant and inn were separate entities. Noah and Zoe Sheppard purchased the inn in 2002 and the restaurant in 2004, and Kantor remained to hone his culinary craft.
Chef Kantor strives to make as much from scratch as possible. “The sauces, the bread, the breakfast tortillas, the cocktail syrups—our kitchen has a standard of fresh, organic, homemade ingredients,” says Saya Hansen, General Manager at MacCallum House. A meal here is not the time to forgo carbs, as the fresh-baked sourdough bread slathered in butter has an addictively satisfying chew and a crunchy crust.
Kantor’s kitchen reflects the seasonal bounty of the Mendocino coast. The winter months have brought flavors of chestnut and acorn squash, and for dessert, an apple beignet with salted caramel syrup and cinnamon ice cream. Locally foraged mushrooms reveal their wonders in dishes like the baked porcini gnocchi with fennel sausage, Bolognese gratin, or the trumpet mushrooms found in the Nightly Noodles. The value of the Nightly Noodles is a poorly-kept local secret with an ever-changing seasonal presentation, like a recent fettuccine with seared steak, kale, trumpet mushrooms, and dry jack in a Dijon white wine sauce. (You were warned about the carbs.)
MacCallum House excels at reinventing classics, such as the Liberty Farms Duck Breast, which Kantor serves with a huckleberry Pinot Noir reduction and a porcini bread pudding. Perfect for a special occasion is the Chef’s Tasting menu, with wine or whiskey pairing, which includes treasures like the pan-seared scallops with chanterelle duxelles, a rasher of bacon, puff pastry, and other wonders. If you crave a more relaxed offering, Mac House is known for their fried chicken sandwich with house made pickle, slaw, and the works. But even this classic comes with the modern twist of a Japanese milk bun and smoked paprika fries.
The legacy of excellence at MacCallum House is upheld by the staff. Saya has been there more than 11 years. She has watched many local students, in their first high school job, learn to create the fine dining experience. “We are finally back in the swing of things,” comments Saya. “A lot of senior staff, the seasoned team, left us during the pandemic.” Now the restaurant is back to being open seven days a week for breakfast and dinner.
You can hear the pride in her voice when she describes the important role that MacCallum House has played in the community over the years, giving dinner for two and room nights to in-county causes almost weekly. “We would love to get back to hosting winemaker dinners and Dine Out for a Cause, events that raise funds for our local nonprofits like the Kelley House Museum and the Mendocino Art Center,“ she adds.
The historical architecture and stately design may not have changed much since 1882, but within this Mendocino Village icon is a kitchen that is continually exploring fresh culinary ideas. This appetite for continual reinvention makes every visit a new experience. So if you’re ready to spoil yourself a little and discover some new and enticing dish or cocktail in the process, an evening at MacCallum House is just the thing.
MacCallum House Restaurant and Inn
45020 Albion St., Mendocino
(800) 609-0492 | maccallumhouse.com
Breakfast Mon - Fri 8am - 10am, Sat & Sun 8am - 11am
Dinner 5pm - 8pm
Photos by Holly Shankland courtesy of MacCallum House
Holly Madrigal is a Mendocino County maven who loves to share the delights of our region. She’s fortunate to enjoy her meaningful work as the director of the Leadership Mendocino program and takes great joy in publishing this magazine.