Mosswood Market
Boonville’s Cross-Cultural Coffee Spot
by Dawn Emery Ballantine
Mosswood Market is one of the most popular jewels in the crown of downtown Boonville—a place both delicious and affordable, appealing to locals and visitors alike. On any given morning, finding a parking place in front of Mosswood can feel like winning the lottery. Once inside the cafe, waiting in line offers a moment to take in the local artwork for sale on the walls (installations change regularly) as well as the inspirations on display behind the cafe bar. Pilar Echeverría, Mosswood’s owner, has a personal favorite which has guided her life—“Insistir, persistir, resistir, y nunca desistir,” or “Insist, Persist, Resist, and Never Give Up.”
For decades, the Mosswood site has been a gathering place for locals and a delightful surprise for tourists, operating out of the Farrer Building in the heart of Boonville. Its first iteration was Cafe Glad, created and run by Glad Donahue for eight years before she sold it to Sharon Hurley. Sharon changed the name to Mosswood Market and redesigned the space with romantic vintage touches like antique light bulbs and copper finishes. Pilar worked for both Glad and Sharon before purchasing the cafe 12½ years ago. As a young woman from La Laguneta, Michoacan, with limited English and no formal education beyond the 8th grade in Mexico, buying and running the business is a significant achievement.
Most famous for their empanadas—goat cheese and bacon, potato and goat cheese, and five other variations—Mosswood also serves Flying Goat Coffee drinks as well as yummy pastries like cinnamon twists, cinnamon rolls, scones, fruit and cheese danishes, among others. They offer a short breakfast menu, and delicious lunch options include paninis, salads, and soups, all made fresh.
The Mosswood staff are personable and delightful, serving up tastiness with a smile. And Pilar is always there, setting an example, observing and supervising, and joining in with the customers during their morning chat sessions. Mosswood is one of the few places where the often segregated cultures of Anderson Valley come together, and it is lovely to witness and be a part of. As Wendy Lamer from Disco Ranch says, “Pilar walks with all people in town. It’s remarkable, and we need more of it … One of the best things in Boonville is Pilar’s Mosswood, and she probably hears more information in the valley than anyone.”
Pilar reflects, “It took me maybe five years to combine two cultures … Right now, I have all my Mexican people, and even from other places, South America, etc. It’s a blend … At the beginning, that was a goal. Sometimes now I am the interpreter between two cultures, and my English is not like, wow, but I am always trying to help here and there. It is fun. I love it.” Pilar laughingly explains about small town gossip heard in the cafe, “You have huge ears, but you have to have a small mouth. And sometimes I don’t understand enough English, so that helps a little.”
Pilar emigrated here 25 years ago, when she was 17. Her father came first to secure their papers, then Pilar arrived, followed by the rest of the family. Pilar explains that coming here launched a different stage in her life. She feels safer and more comfortable here, because in Mexico the life for girls is so different and not as free. The family moved here because they wanted a different life with more freedom and better options for earning a living.
Though she completed school in La Laguneta at the 8th grade, Pilar did not want to begin school again in a new country, so she decided to find a job. She initially worked in the vineyards before becoming a nanny for a local family for 12 years, while also working as a baker at Cafe Glad, a position she enjoyed because, as she says, “I like people.” And in the meantime she married Javier, her childhood sweetheart from La Laguneta, and she started her own family.
When Cafe Glad was sold to Sharon and became Mosswood Market, Pilar stayed on. She enjoyed baking and working in the cafe, which provided the opportunity to learn more English and conquer some of her shyness. She attended Mendocino College for a couple of semesters, which helped her improve her English, but she says that her English was only “about 30%” when she began to consider purchasing the business. In fact, another employee at Mosswood at the time scoffed at Pilar, telling her she could never buy the cafe and be successful because she was from Mexico and had no business experience or English. But Pilar persisted, saying, “Just watch me!”
The sale process took about six months, made possible with savings and family loans. Pilar claims she didn’t know anything about business, but she knew how to utilize the connections and resources she had to great effect. She took the leap and has never regretted it, stating “I never work, because I love what I do.”
Mosswood persevered through COVID with no federal assistance, a fact that makes Pilar very proud. They are weathering the current changing economy, though a recent substantial rent increase has them concerned. Pilar notes that much of their success through hard times is because of their devoted community and family. One day, a community member arrived at Mosswood with $1,000 to help them through the worst of COVID. He said, “You need to survive. We want you here. So this is for you.”
Others have assisted by trading produce or donating extra from their gardens. When asked where she sources her produce, Pilar says, “I don’t buy. People are very generous to me. My cousin Veronica trades coffee for tomatoes or wine for tomatoes. I’m blessed because people, when they have extra, they offer it. I live in a very nice community.” The best part of owning this business is the people, notes Pilar. Even when people are difficult, she exclaims, “I love them!”
Pilar’s daughter, Miranda, has joined her mother behind the counter, and they both share in caring for Pilar’s young son, Damian. Pilar is pleased and surprised that Miranda really enjoys working at Mosswood, though she is young yet and has other interests she might explore. Noelia, Pilar’s aunt, begins the daily baking at 3am, and Erika, Pilar’s sister-in-law, is essential during lunch service. Their sweet smiles and greetings can be glimpsed through the kitchen cut-out. Pilar can do all the tasks and can run the place alone when needed, but she prefers to rely on the teamwork of her staff.
Pilar is committed to maintaining affordable prices for pastries so that regular folks can enjoy coffee and a treat. During COVID, their entire clientele was just locals, and that was enough for the business to survive. Pilar likes to reciprocate by keeping prices reasonable and hopes the rent increase won’t require otherwise. Getting through week to week can be a challenge, but she says, “I don’t know anything about business, and I do it in a different way. But I love my place, and I even get paid once in a while. Maybe I don’t have money, but I don’t owe money.” Pilar’s persistence has paid off. Mosswood is many things—a social hub for some, a remote office for others, and most of all, an excellent spot to grab a morning cup of bliss.
Mosswood Market
14111 Highway 128, Boonville
(707) 895-3635 | MosswoodMarketCafe.com
Open daily 5:30am – 3pm
Dawn Emery Ballantine lives in Anderson Valley where she curates and sells books at Hedgehog Books and edits this magazine.
