Spontaneous Wanderlust
Kitchen Tips and Tricks from an Impromptu Excursion
by Holly Madrigal
April Cunningham can usually be found chopping vegetables and prepping delicious meals at the Caring Kitchen, a wonderful organization that provides nutritious meals for free to cancer patients. Last year, April and her husband Fred received a last-minute opportunity for what she described as “the trip of a lifetime.” April had made the acquaintance of Mara Jernigan twelve years back when they went to a culinary retreat at Fairburn Farm in British Columbia, spending each day gathering items for that evening’s meal. Mara was a Canadian representative for the Slow Food movement and an accomplished chef. April had continued to follow Mara on Instagram, so when Mara posted that she had an eleventh-hour spot on a trip to Sicily, April and Fred spontaneously decided to join her.
Mara has led annual tours to this region for many years. After a whirlwind preparation, they converged in Sicily with four other Canadian women and a guide from Torino. A villa had been rented in the town of Scopello on the northern top of the geographical football being kicked by Italy’s boot. The group settled in, often gathering on the terrace nestled amongst the hills with views high above the sea. Each day they would embark on excursions to quench their culinary desires. Mara and their guide explained the lay of the land, including a tour of Mount Etna. They hiked the edge of the caldera of this still-active volcano, which gives the island the soil to grow excellent wine and other crops. Visiting a pistachio farm, they tasted fresh ground pistachio butter and watched a shelling machine separate the pink-green nuts from their shells.
“Each day was a whirlwind,” says April. “They are so in touch with their food and where it comes from there. A visit to the market was required before dinner was decided each night. One day we visited a dairy where they crafted cheese for the town. It was amazing to see them making mozzarella and aged cheese, but the most incredible part was lining up with the townsfolk to have scoops of warm, fresh-made ricotta dolloped into our bowls,” she describes in reminiscent wonder.
Fred enjoyed learning about the history and culture of Sicily as they traveled. “One day we went out with a mycologist, Mario, and his truffle-hunting dogs. Mario was a big part of writing the foraging laws in Sicily to protect both the local fauna and the economy of the mushroom treasures to be found there.” Fred describes the scene: “We trekked through the forest, and you had to keep an eye on the dogs and hurry to dig up the truffles that they found so that they didn’t damage them. That day we made a warm salad with the mushrooms we foraged and sauteed, covering fresh greens that wilted under the mushroom’s heat. The only issue was that, at some point, I just couldn’t eat any more food,” laughs Fred. “I needed a break.” April agrees. “Each day our hosts would lay out the most amazing spread—locally cured meats, Castelvetrano olives that had been salt brined instead of lye, mandarin oranges, and prickly pears! And that was before we went out for the day,” she adds.
The education continued as the group traveled to Palermo at the southern end of the island, where fishing is more commonplace. They toured the fish markets, and Nicoletta, one of their local hosts, explained the local market culture to them: “When you visit the market, you find your favorite vendors and you become their patron. You are theirs and they are yours, it’s mutual. You choose them and they ensure that you are taken care of,” an idea that feels foreign to the western anonymity of the massive grocery store.
The group visited Planeta, an estate that makes olive oil, grows wine, and creates other foodstuffs. This business has been pressing oil for over 400 years. Seventeen generations of family members have played a part in its continuity. April and Fred marveled at the history of this place.
Along the ramparts of a seaport in Palermo, the group was invited to stay at Palazzo Langa Tomasi, the residence of a duke and duchess whose family helped restore the palazzo to prominence in the late fifties. The duchess created a culinary experience of sorts, where you stay in a collection of apartments in her Palazzo; she leads you on trips to the market, planning each meal; and then all retire to her spacious kitchen to learn from her mastery. April, who has worked in kitchens for North Coast Opportunities for decades and is no stranger to cooking foods at the peak of freshness, was tickled to learn a new method for making Trapanese Pesto (recipe below). This tomato pesto sauce is poured atop freshly cooked pasta, the heat from the pasta gently warming the sauce and helping to release the full flavors. Fresh parmesan was grated on top, and the group enjoyed an outstanding meal.
Aspects of Mendocino County are Mediterranean and similar to southern Italy, and a deep appreciation for produce at the peak of ripeness is shared here as well. “This was truly the trip of a lifetime” muses April. “I’m not sure I ever would have specifically traveled to Sicily, but I learned so much, so many culinary tricks that I plan to bring back to the Caring Kitchen in Ukiah. We are so lucky to get to have an experience like this.” There is so much to learn and implement from our neighbors across the sea to strengthen our connection to the food that we grow and eat.
Ruvidelli al pesto trapanese
Ingredients
1 lb Roma tomatoes
¾ c blanched almonds
Large bunch of basil
1 c unflavored breadcrumbs
Salt & fresh ground pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
1 lb Ruvidelli pasta
Instructions
Any sweet, ripe tomato with a thin skin would be perfect for this recipe. Put tomatoes, almonds, basil, salt, and pepper in a blender and start blending. Eventually pour the oil, little by little, until the desired consistency is achieved (I like it quite creamy). The sauce will be pink/orange in color. Pour half of the sauce in a serving bowl.
Bring plenty of water to boil in a large pot. Cook the Ruvidelli (or Busiate or any other short pasta, or if you prefer long pasta, Bucatini) until al dente.
For the breadcrumbs, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat and swirl it all over the bottom of the pan. Stir in the breadcrumbs with a wooden spoon. Turn them repeatedly until they get a golden brown color, 2-3 minutes. Take care not to burn the crumbs! Immediately spread the toasted breadcrumbs onto a plate, allowing them to cool, stirring once or twice.
Drain pasta and put into the bowl with sauce. Add the remaining sauce and toss well. Decorate with basil leaves and serve with Muddica Atturrata (toasted breadcrumbs).
Photos by April Cunningham
